 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have seen many articles on sculpting figures, everyone seems to have
similar ideas although I know from my own experience it never hurts to
read another article as you can always pick up new tips and tricks. When I first started sculpting figures (over a decade ago) I used simple wire frames as skeletons and Milliput for the actual scuplting. This was fine and produced reasonable results. However I soon started to hear about things called "dollies" and also a modelling material called simply (and mysteriously) "Green Stuff". "Dollies" The "dollies" are basically half finished figures. They take all of the boring building work out of figure design and scupture. You can start with a "dolly" that is already sculpted to a rough human shape and after bending the legs to the pose you require (carefully, white metal can be quite brittle) , more or less get straight on with the detail. |
|
Milliput and Greenstuff Milliput is a two part epoxy putty, it has many uses to the model maker and ,although I rarely use it for figure sculpting now, I still use it for basing figures, creating details for diaramas and filling joints in figures. Milliput and Greenstuff have very different properties. When set Milliput becomes very hard, and will take sanding, drilling and I have even cut threads for machine screws into it occasionally. This makes it very useful for creating man-made or industial type models, as it is fairly easy to produce sharp edges and flat panels etc. Milliput is not, however, that popular with figure manufacturers. This is because of the mould making process. White metal castings, on an industrial level, are usually produced using vulcanised rubber moulds (it is cheaper than silicon rubber). The vulcanising process involves applying heat and high pressure to the rubber (with the original master figure inside). Although Milliput is very hard when cured, it is also quite brittle. The pressure used to cure the rubber means that Milliput tends to break while going through the process (especially fine details, weapons, arms and horns for example). Greenstuff (trade name : Kneadatite Blue/Yellow), on the other hand, when cured retains some flexiblity. It is sold in the form of a plastic wrapped ribbon. The ribbon is divided into two colours, Blue and Yellow (I am sure that you had already guessed that but I am trying to be thorough). To mix it you cut off a length with a pair of scissors, remove the plastic protective layer and mix the two colours together. The point in the ribbon where the two coloured strips meet has usually stiffened a little. I usually cut this off before mixing. Once mixed the blue/yellow ribbon becomes an even green colour (no surprise there then!). It then remains workable for a reasonable period of time. I can't be too specific here as room temperature and other things will affect the curing time. I tend to find that I can work with it for up to about an hour. Although towards the end of that period it is starting to stiffen a little . I always mix more greenstuff (and milliput for that matter) than I need. Better this than run out in the middle of a really important bit. I do not however waste any of it! How do I achieve this, you ask? Simple, I always have several different jobs just started that are still in need of bulking out and the excess greenstuff is ideal for this. This means that you have to plan two or three figures down the road. Another way to use up the excess (yes I have forgotten to have other figures on the go, occasionally) is to make up things that are quick and easy to make and will always come in handy for something. For example, horns (what could be quicker than rolling out your greenstuff and bending it in to a horn shape) mushrooms (again fairly simple and always useful for brightening up a boringly based figure). |
|
Now on with the sculpting. Sculpting tools come in all shapes and sizes. There are, of course, the commercially available ones. I am sure they are fine, but I have always prefered either making my own tools or using dental tools. Dental tools can usually be found at dentists (bit of a shock that one!). If you have a good relationship with your dentist (some people do you know), next time you go in for an appointment, ask him/her if they have any old or broken tools. Dentists regularly replace there tools and the old ones are ideal for model-makers, Also old dental drills and burrs are great for use in modellers mini drills. Dental tools are made from stainless steel, this means that they are usually fairly strong and they don't rust at all. I make my own tools by beating out the end of a piece of stainless steel rod until it is flat and then shaping it, either on a grinder or with needle files. My favorite tools, the ones I use all the time, I have made myself. I think this is because they are small, light and fit my hand just right. |
|
The first tool in the picture is my favourite, it is the one that I use for virtually all of my sculpting. I find that the curved end can be used to produce almost all of the effects that I need to create. Other than the sculpting tools, there are other tools that are needed. A good scalpel or fine craft knife with interchangable, (very) sharp blades, a set of needle files and some small clamps. A mini drill, such as a Dremel, a Black and Decker Wizard or a Mini-Craft is also extremely useful. The drill can be used for cutting, sanding, grinding and of course drilling. You have your dolly or wire armature, you have your tools and Greenstuff, now what? |
|
Mix the Greenstuff and get going! Don't expect your figures to be at the Ral Partha or Games Workshop standard straight away. Some of my early attempts were very weak either in posing or just general sculpting. It takes time, practice and patience to produce good work. If you are not confident enough to start a figure from scratch, why not start by converting bought figures. Start simple, reposition an arm, add a backpack or a cloak. Then try cutting off an arm or leg and sculpting a new one (you will need to drill into the figure and glue some wire in the hole to use as an armature). Finally try cutting a figure in half at the waist and making the two halves into two complete figures. One of the most important considerations that must be thought of before you start sculpting is that of the figures actual design. Many times I have started sculpting without having a firm idea about the figure that I want. It doesn't work! The pose never looks right and it takes you twice as long to sculpt the figure as well. Spend some time sketching out your ideas, get a design that is both anatomically correct and pleasing to the eye. Decide on the sort of detail that you require (this does not need to be exact, but if you are going to put heavy plate armour on a figure you may find that the arms etc. have to be positioned slightly differently. |
 |
 |