This was our first visit to the Merhaan, a small, homely establishment a mile or two out of town. It has a worn, run-down atmosphere that adds to its appeal. The staff are friendly and efficient and, most importantly of all, they provide better than average fare.

We started with veg samosas (50p for two), murgh pakora (£1.50), and onion bhaji (80p). The samosas were fresh, the pastry light and crisp and the filling substantial and tasty. The onion bhaji were good value - big, flat-type affairs, highly spiced and well-cooked. The murgh pakora was enjoyed: decent sized pieces of chicken in a pungent batter.

I had a palak and dall and enjoyed it thoroughly. It was a good portion of hot spinach with a plentiful addition of toor dall: it was one of those deceptive curries that has a slow-burn, with a subtle foretaste and a nice kick as an aftertaste. The chana masala was also enjoyed: perfectly cooked chick peas in a hot, incremental sauce - and again the portion was generous. The palak channa was chosen by our erstwhile meat-eater, recently converted to vegetarianism - and this was his first veg curry. He thought it, "A good sized portion, nicely spiced and flavoursome, but not too hot. The channa was a tad undercooked." The chicken rogan was, "Spicy, but a fairly basic flavour, even gravy-like. The chicken pieces were strips rather than chunks."

All in all we came away from the Merhaan quietly impressed. It won't win the best restaurant in the city award, but it is a cosy, unpretentious, authentic curry house serving way above average fare. Recommended.

(All dishes come with a choice of rice or three chapattis.)