A Brief History of Staveley

 
   

Staveley Links
Staveley, Derbyshire

Staveley Listing
in the Gazeteer, History and Directory of Derbyshire 1857


Arthur Court Memoirs

CRIME IN DERBYSHIRE
Executions

STAVELEY
Norman Times

The 14th Century

The 16th Century

The Industrial Revolution

Staveley Hall

The Chantry

The Old Rectory

The Parish Church

Netherthorpe Grammer School

The Hagg

St John The Baptist Church

 

Wesleyan Chapel

 

Norman Times 

Before the Norman Conquest, In Edward the Confessor's reign STAVELEIE was known to be a settlement. It was at this time that Hacon the Saxon held lands in the area. 

The Domesday Book of 1086 records that Staveleie was "The land of Ascuit Musard: - In Staveleie Hacon had four carncates of land for gelf. Land for four ploughs. Now Ascuit has in the demesne there three ploughs; and twenty-one villages and seven bordars have four ploughs. There is a priest and a church and one mill of five shillings and four pence value. There are sixty acres of meadow, wood, pesturable, one mile and a half in length and the same in breadth. In the time of King Edward and now it was, and is, worth six pounds." 

There were only twelve more valuable holdings in the county in Norman times. This realises the importance of Staveley at the time, only five holdings had larger areas of land. It was through the Conquest of 1066, for his services to William I, Ascuit Musard was given the demesne. 

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The 14th Century

The Manor was held by the Musard family until the 14th century. It was at this time the male line died out and the estates then passed to the female line. Anker de Frecheville was married to the eldest. The Frechevilles held a great influence over the town. The Frechevilles built and fortified Staveley Hall, extended the church and founded Netherthorpe Grammar School. The Frechevilles also developed the farms and the mills, and through marriage, amassed a substantial fortune in property, land and cash. 

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The 16th Century

During the Civil War, Sir John Frecheville was a loyal supporter of Charles I. After the battle of Marston Moor in 1644 the King is reported to have stayed with him at Staveley Hall. Some of the action of the Civil War in Derbyshire centered around Staveley Hall.

Contemporary reports by Cromwell's officers say that after the surrender of Bolsover Castle in August 1644, " They all marched to Staley House, which was strongly fortified. But upon our armies advance to it, it was soon surrendered upon articles of agreement, and in it we had twelve pieces of ordnance, two hundred and thirty muskets, and a hundred and fifty pikes; and Mr. John Frecheville (who had long held the house fortified with strong works for the service of the King) being then convinced of the goodness of our cause, did very freely, and voluntarily, render to the Major General Crawford, all the arms aforesaid with much other ammunition."  

After the Restoration of Charles II, John Frecheville was granted a peerage and became Baron Musard, eventually, financial problems caused him to sell the estates in 1681 to the Cavendish family and the Dukes of Devonshire have retained possession of the land though to the present day.

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The Industrial Revolution

The industrial revolution saw Staveley's greatest period of expansion along with the development of the canals and the railways. the Devonshire's and their lessees, the Barrows and Markhams, took advantage of the area as it was rich in coal and minerals. They build up a thriving coal mining, iron smelting and casting industry and as a result of this the Staveley Coal and Iron Company was founded In 1845. The majority of the land is now local authority owned or is owned by ocal businesses but the Duke of Devonshire still owns much of the surrounding farmland, keeping the links with the past alive. 

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Places of Interest in Staveley 

Staveley Hall

Staveley Hall is one of the architectural treasures of Staveley. It is a Grade II Listed Building. Staveley Hall in its present form was built by Sir Peter Frecheville in 1604.
Before the current building there have been buildings on this site for over 700 years but details of these are sketchy, although the digs that have been conducted in 2005 and 2007 are helping us understand the situation better.
In some early records the manor house is referred to as the castle so it is believed there was a building in the time of the Musard family, probably a fortified manor house originally built of wood.

The Domesday book entry was a valuable hereditament and fitting tribute to Musard for his services as one whose name is recorded at Battle Abbey (founded on the site of the Battle of Hastings) as one of the supporters of William 1 in the Conquest of 1066. The importance of Staveley will be appreciated for the fact that of 270 entries and 335 separate place names mentioned in the Domesday Book, only 12 (including Derby itself) were more valuable holdings; and there are references to only five larger areas of meadow and those wholly in the South Derbyshire.

Hascuit de Musard was awarded the Manor of Staveley after the Norman Conquest of 1066 and the Domesday Book of 1086 records the fact that the Saxon Lord of the Manor had been Hacon (a Viking name). If there is any evidence of a Saxon dwelling it will only consist of post holes of the wooden building.

In 1306 the Musard family died out - not because the last Lord of the Manor,- Nicholas Musard did not have any children but because he took holy orders and became Rector of Staveley. This resulted in his line being bastardised and his inheritance passed to his sister Amicia Musard. She had married Anker de Frecheville and so their son Ralph de Frecheville became the new Lord. The Frechevilles lived in the Hall until they died out in 1682. Nothing remains above ground of the house they built in the Middle Ages and little is known of this building, apart from its contents in 1550. More is being learned as a result of the ‘Stairways to Nowhere’ dig 2007’s Hall or Nothing Dig.

In 1603 Sir Peter de Frecheville was knighted by James 1 at Worksop and he wished to make Staveley Hall a suitable residence for a knight and Justice of the Peace. He also later became the Deputy Lieutenant, Sheriff and MP for Derbyshire and probably wished to follow the example of others in Derbyshire by building an impressive building.

The architect of Sir Peter de Frechevilles house is not known but may well be Huntingdon Smithson - the architect employed by the Cavendish's at Bolsover Castle.

The entrance porch bears the date 1604 but in fact the porch is of a much later date. The slab with the coat of arms is from 1604 and contains an heraldic device that is not quite as expected. It appears to combine Sir Peters Coat of Arms and those of Margaret, his mother's. Inside the Hall in the fireplace on the landing of the First Floor is a cast iron fireback dated 1605. This almost certainly came from a forge built on the Rother close to where the Staveley Works stood. It was this forge that helped make the Frechevilles rich.

The wealth created was used to expand Staveley Hall and in 1684 it had twelve large rooms on the ground floor and a long gallery along the second storey parallel with the Church. This side was battlemented like the tower of the Church. The park in which it stood was large and wooded, with fish from the Rother and wild fowl from the marshland.

In the English Civil War 1643-1645 Staveley Hall was at its most important. John Frecheville was on the side of King Charles I as a Colonel and fortified the Hall with a regiment of foot and horse.

Colonel Frecheville led his men far a field and eventually had to return to the Hall after the defeat by the Parliamentarians at Marston Moor. He was followed by a detachment of the Eastern Association under Major General Crawford. The Hall was fortified and the windows shuttered with iron shutters (the hinges are still there on the western front).

But the Hall was weakest on the eastern side and after his victories at Sheffield and Bolsover Major General Crawford arrived at the eastern front of the Hall with 1,200 foot soldiers and a regiment of horse.

Sir John realised quickly he was in a hopeless position and surrendered without a shot being fired. Sir John then changed sides but after a few months returned to the Royalist cause eventually having to flee to Holland leaving the Hall empty.

It had been an important centre for the Royalists in Derbyshire and King Charles I stayed here twice on his way to and from Newark. When Sir John returned from exile he was rewarded in 1660 after restoration of Charles II; he became Baron of Staveley. However, he died without a male heir in 1682 and the house was sold to the Cavendish family. They installed a steward and eventually it was rented to Mr. Dennis Hayford in 1700 who had the lease on the Staveley Iron Works. In 1710 Lord James Cavendish moved in and began rebuilding in the Queen Ann Style.

His line in turn became extinct soon after his death in 1751 and the Hall and Park reverted to The Duke of Devonshire. In 1756 the furnishings of the Hall were sold and it began to be demolished: the east front was pulled down. The Rector of Staveley managed to persuade the Duke of Devonshire to allow his son to live there. Various clerics lived there until 1841. In 1843 the whole of the south wing with its long gallery was demolished but the rest of the Hall was saved in 1847 by the Reverend Macfarlane. It remained as a rectory until bought by Staveley Urban District Council.

Sir George Gilbert Scott made extensive alterations while he was extending and restoring St. John the Baptist Church between 1865 and 1869.

Upon Local Government reorganisation in 1974 ownership passed to Chesterfield Borough Council and it was eventually bought by Staveley Town Council.

The south front was nine bays wide with an entrance into a hall running almost across the house and a screen of 2 Corinthian columns. It was three storeys high to the east and two to the west.

The West front was much as it is now but later in Victorian times the house was remodelled by Sir Gilbert Scott. He built the canted bay on the west front with multi light mullioned and transomed windows. However, he used the glass from the 1604 windows according to an expert we employed during the last year to restore some of the diamond leaded glass on the north side of the Council Chamber. He put in the new staircase and recased the eastern front.

The windows on the west front were all replaced with chamfered mouldings. Internally the fine 1604 period panelling reputedly survives although repositioned and can be seen in three rooms, and there are some original fireplaces. The most complete front of the original building is the West Front constructed in the early Renaissance style with 6 large windows. The northern one was altered in 1847 to provide a bay.

The East front was restored in 1752 and as previously mentioned, there is the Frecheville Coat of Arms above the door. In times past Staveley Hall sat in the centre of grounds which stretched for miles. The landscaped park in which it sat is long gone but it is possible to trace the boundaries which were defined by farms and lodges; such as The Hagg, some 1.5 miles away.

Plans are in place  to restore the remaining grounds but one can see the listed Kitchen Garden Wall (18th Century) and the massive stone walls and buttresses on the west. These are remarkably well preserved.

Staveley Hall Website

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The Chantry

This is the oldest building in Staveley and is situated in the High Street, a few yards from the lynchgate of the church. It was erected as a Chantry by the Frechevilles, and, during alterations in 1904, skeletons were unearthed which may have been those of early members of the family, or possibly, of the Musard Family, of whom no tombs have been found. The building was used as a Mechanics Institute in the mid 19th Century, then as a youth club, and is now a private house.

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The Old Rectory

This fine old house was built in 1719 in the foundations of an earlier building, and was widely believed to contain a passage leading from its cellars to the church across the road, though no evidence has been found to substantiate this belief. The Rectory's most famous inhabitants were James and Francis Gisbourne, successive Rectors of Staveley from 1716 to 1821.

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The Parish Church

The Parish Church of St. John the Baptist stands next to the Hall. The earliest record of a church in Staveley was in the Domesday book, it was built by Hacon, the Saxon, in the early 11th century and was extended in the Norman period by the Musard Family, who used Saxon grave slabs for part of the window sills.

The church contains a fine Norman font dating from about 1175. The Frechevilles added to the church in the 14th Century, installing a high alter, with memorial alter tombs, and an Easter sepulchre with fine medieval carvings. A Frecheville chapel was built to house the family tombs, and this has a beautiful stained glass window made in the 17th Century by Gyles of York, The base of the tower is early English, but extensions were added in the 15th and 16th Centuries. Clerestory windows were added to the south chancel in the 15th and 16th Centuries. The last extensive restoration was carried out by Gilbert Scott between 1865 and 1869, when a new south aisle was built. A unique feature of the church is the Miner's Shrine, which contains a carving by a local craftsman of St. Michael, the patron Saint of Miners, a piece of coal from Ireland Colliery, the nearest of the local collieries, and a miner's lamp, which remains perpetually lit.

Staveley Parish Church Information | Views of the Interior of Staveley Church

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Netherthorpe Grammar School

This School was founded in 1572 by Margaret Frecheville, mother of the Sir Peter who built the Hall, and was originally a Free Grammar School, maintained by bequests from the local gentry. It is an oblong building, with a two-storey porch at the west corner, the upper floor of which contained the Masters rooms. The Old School is now used as the school library, and contains some of the original 17th century furniture.

Netherthorpe School Website | Netherthorpe Old Student's Association

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The Hagg

This fine Jacobean mansion which stands 1.5 miles from the town centre, is now a farm. It was built as a dower house by Sir Peter Frecheville, and contains mullioned windows, and a flat-roofed porch, used originally as a balcony from which to watch the hunting. The interior contains fine oak panelling, a pair of 17th century dog gates at the foot of the staircase, and extensive wine and beer cellars. It is reputed to be haunted by the ghost of a lady dressed in white, and was also said to have a passage connecting it to Staveley Hall.

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