The Grain should run along the longest dimension of any
part.
Dimensions have not been included... make to suit the size
of equipment that you use. This version is drawn as two seperate
components, a "normal" mesh floor and a tray stage that can be placed
underneath. Suitable strips of planed timber are readily available
from DIY stores or woodworkers' suppliers.
Although I have drawn galvanised 8 mesh, other metal screens
are suitable, providing the mesh is not large enough to admit bees or
wasps. (Old fireguards have been suggested by Chris Slade.) The
Plywood that is used for the tray itself should be 9 mm in thickness
(thinner material warps and sags).
The under rim of the upper component should be made first,
gluing and screwing the corners.
The mesh should be stapled in each corner and along the
exposed front edge,
then the upper rim parts are added using 38 mm
Csk twinthread woodscrews through the bottom rim into the top parts
so that the heads of the countersunk screws are underneath.
The tray stage can be made in a similar fashion using
broader strips for the tray to rest on.
An entrance block of 421 mm
x 21 mm x 21 mm (Thorne's size) has been drawn, but you will need to
use whatever size fits your hive type
The version as drawn is simple to make. If
petroleum jelly is used on the
mating surfaces and the runners and edges of the tray and
linseed oil is used on the
other wooden parts, (take care that the linseed oil does not block
any of the holes in the mesh panel, as it will dry to a rubbery
consistancy).
A description of how and why these items are used is given
by Ken Hoare in the document
Open Mesh Floors.
Generated... Autumn 2001
Revised... 20 February 2002
