The sunshine was just beautiful. We manoeuvred the boat back out through the rocks. I did have my doubts as to whether they would catch on the bottom of the boat or not. Somewhere out in the ocean we saw some kayakers. The leader paddled over to us and shouted something to the captain. He was asking if we had some coffee we could spare. How could we refuse. It was quite funny seeing the oarsmen’s little troops waiting for him patiently by a rock, paddling together. I wouldn’t mind doing some kayaking, it seems pretty big out here, Pangea seem the most favoured company offering trips.

I don’t actually think I slept at all on this cruise, it’s the only one on which I didn’t. I was out on the front deck nearly all the time. On the return leg of the trip we did see a couple of other boats out cruising too. Earlier on we’d stopped to view a humpback whale and a little boat came ploughing right through where the whale was. I have heard horror stories of whales getting wasted by boat propellers. We did see even more whales on the way back. Most spectacularly we saw one about 10ft away from the boat, barnacles and all. This was the point at which I couldn’t help but shout out and everyone looked. I thought I was going to cry to be honest. All these years I’ve only ever seen them in pictures and on TV and here was one swimming right under our boat.

I wish I didn’t have to bother taking pictures all the time and just concentrate on looking at them. It’s good to have a physical picture but you certainly don’t absorb as much mentally when you look through a view finder.

Another knee trembling moment was catching sight or two transient Orca’s. The captain commented that he didn’t recognise them as inhabitants of the Resurrection Bay area so these particular two were new to him too, how could he tell? A bit farther up we saw a humpback calf mucking about. He was jumping up backwards and just flopping back into the water. Not coming completely out of the water, just out to his middle. He did this four or five times and then his mother made her presence known too and then resubmerged herself. The calf continued doing the same thing for ages, we left him doing it, in hot pursuit of him was the boat behind us. They had also got a really good view of the whale that came close to our boat as it was swimming in their direction.

So we were all pretty satisfied with our day’s viewing. We three headed downtown to Apollo’s restaurant for a hearty stuffing of Italian. I had vegetarian Calzones which were far too filling but I ate it anyway, accompanied by two pints of Alaskan Amber. We were on a minor mission that night as we were itching for a night out. McCarthy had been the last seen of devastation and debauchery, it was time to hassle some more natives.

So we headed for the nearest bar without even pausing to catch the name of it. A big wooden place packed to bursting point with Alaskan artefacts and big long haired and bearded men, with a smattering of blonde haired maidens dancing in front of the almost definitely Canadian singer. Who, to give him his due, did play Touch Me by the Doors. I had an unfortunate incident in the Ladies when I watched in horror as the WC filled to the brim with water and started to overflow. I’ve always dreaded that sort of thing happening. Trouble was, the door to the bar was only a metre away and on the same level. I just stood and stared but luckily it found its way down a hole in the floor that looked as if it was located there for just such an incident. At this point somebody knocked on the door to ask if I was OK, she probably thought I’d been so long I was either ill or doing something illegal. Neither I guess.

I was beginning to think that no one was going to talk to us when all of a sudden I got talking to a local lad, he had the biggest muscles in his legs I have ever seen, he asked me to dance. I hope I didn’t hurt his feelings when I declined, you never know, dancing might mean something different in Alaska. Besides I was engrossed in conversation with his sister, Nancy. Who was telling me about how the other day she’d seen a black bear at the top end of town and had to get a lift home with some guy because she was out walking alone and got a bit spooked. One of the guy’s who I’d spotted earlier had come over to talk to Linda and Mike. The sweet but girly waiter had also popped over to Linda for a chat and tried the old ‘I’d love to go to London but I have nowhere to stay’ line, ahem.

I got talking to a young guy called Chris, despite being introduced to me by Nancy as Steve, who offered us a lift for the following day if we wanted one to Exit Glacier as he’d just started his vacation and had nothing better to do. It was getting later and later and the bar still hadn’t closed. Another guy came over and started talking gibberish to me about something, thankfully it wasn’t only me who didn’t have a clue what he was on about. The bar lady was really sweet too, she gave us all a sticker with the Yukon Bar on it, guess that’s what the bar was called then. I couldn’t help noticing the grizzly head on the wall with plimsoll in it’s mouth with a sign underneath saying ‘send more tourists’. When I asked ‘big legs’ if he hated tourists he said he didn’t hate anybody, which was reassuring.

By now it was about 3am and a few were making tracks, we were invited to the ‘Pit’ which stayed open till 5am but surreptitiously began walking and left Mike to explain we had an early morning the next day, which we did. Mike branched off from us and we continued to walk up the road back home. It was still light, a little dusky, and very warm. I love this place. Linda stopped to take a flash photo of a local riding home on his bike. I can’t wait to see it. He had a long ginger beard and had a huge halibut hanging from his handlebars with its tail dragging on the floor. When the flash went off his eyes widened to beady dots, his beard quivered and he put out both his legs as if he was going to stop or something. Linda reckoned he did smile at her and wanted to pose for her, I think he was startled personally, who wouldn’t be if they were minding their own business riding along at 3 in the morning with a fish on your bike? How funny. A young lad cycled past us further on then came back to ask for a cigarette. I went to the porta-loo outside the Eagle Quality Centre, whilst Linda took the more conventional method of squatting on the floor. We saw the lad again and said ‘hi’. Then we went in the shop for more ammo (camera film).

When we got back, after a wrong turning that ended up in the right place, the dog didn’t bark once, mind you we were especially quiet. This had been a cool night, except for my leg hurting so much I couldn’t sit still for 2 minutes all night and terrible indigestion from the Calzone, you live and learn.

Thursday 22nd June

We got up and had brekkie at about 8.30. Linda had got into the habit of forcefully waking me up as I never seemed to hear the alarm clock or get up until I’d laid dormant for a further 30 mins anyway, not like when we were camping and I couldn’t wait to get up and out of the tent into the wilderness.

We walked to the Eagle Quality Centre (another Safeway) where I called Travis, the guy from the night before, producing his scribbled down number from a serviette from the bar. He came to pick us up in about 15 minutes. We drove to the base of Exit Glacier. We had to pay $5 to get into the park. Travis walked with us up to the foot of the glacier, we ambled around a bit. Couldn’t really find much to say because me and Linda were itching to either walk over the glacier or find the Harding Ice field Trail we’d heard so much about. Travis was only wearing trainers and shorts so he decided to head back. He probably thought we would have a look at the pretty blue glacier (with ropes around it because somebody got squashed there not too long ago and sued the park (Kenai)) and then want to head back to the town or something. Personally I was glad to get rid of him so we could do our climb in peace. He was a nice guy and very kind to give us a lift. He talked about his Mum coming to visit for the first time since he moved there a year ago from Minnesota to be a Coast Guard.

So me and Linda lengthened our poles and began the steep ascent that was to take us the rest of the day up 3000 feet (apparently) so we could look down the ice field and down onto Exit. I really enjoyed this day. The climb was great and we weren’t even hung over. Although I was a bit peckish and needed a wee. There were a couple of guys behind us, one r had bear bells on, need I say more. We slowed down and let them pass us but kept swapping over at various points throughout the trail. I much prefer a walk where you don’t see a single soul. Anyway, as we got further up the trail the snow began to thicken and the track began to vanish. I even had to put on my sticky out bits on my poles which I hadn’t had to up until now. It was really good walking in the snow. My boots were great, totally warm and water proof. The views from up there were magnificent, just mountains and pure untouched snow and the glacier and the sun. By the time we’d ploughed to the top I was still desperate for the loo. There was a group of people at he top, including the bear bellers. Someone had built a reindeer out of snow and found 2 sticks from somewhere for its antlers. The lads had managed to reach the top whilst me and Linda had been observing a Willow Ptarmigan, the state bird. I’d heard a rustling and stood very still until I located it. This small podgy bird emerged from the leaves (this was lower down the trail) making a really sweet noise. Its call sounded as if it was a bit miffed, ‘hmpff – hmpff’ every now and then, ahh. Got some piccies of it but he’ll probably be really small on them. Also, his red bits weren’t as red as the photos I’ve seen, which leads me to suspect that it was probably female.

Anyway, at the top we managed to find a small mound of heather. There was already a guy asleep on it but he woke up and left. I fell asleep on the slope. My list of naps in dangerous places keeps getting bigger; edge of cliff, glacier, mountain edge overlooking glacier/icefield/.I fell asleep for about an hour and got sunburned a bit. More redness for my nose and more racoon eyes according to the locals in the pub last night. The mountains at that time of day look wonderful. The sun was shining on the snow. The pictures won’t do it justice. If there is a heaven it won’t be heaven unless it looks like this. Perfect white snow as far as the eye can see with the very occasional mountain peak showing itself through as a black scar on the snow, sunlight shining. Where is more beautiful, my heart could burst. I have felt like that so many times here. At every stage this place shows something even more beautiful than I’ve seen before. I can remember after our ice climbing session on Root, when we walked back to the camp, I was looking over towards Chugach thinking how gorgeous it was, slightly pink as it was late, hardly being able to catch my breath. Then I turned round in the direction of Blackburn and saw the moon. It was huge and about 3/4 full over the glacier against the clear sky. Does it ever stop?

I asked Brian or Richard once if they still appreciate the landscape, after a small joke he admitted no, I think it was Brian. Mum reckons I’d get used to it too if I lived there but I seriously doubt it. I still love to look at the scenery around home and no matter how many times I stand on the cliff edge and see a little fishing boat with its light on surrounded by ocean with the moon above it in Cadgwith Cove, Cornwall, I’ll always feel moved. I used to think nothing was more beautiful than the sea and the sky together, but that was before I saw Chugach and the sky together, and the mountains above Exit, and a growler and Mear’s cave, and a turquoise crevasse...my heart breaks to see them again, I hope my memories don’t fade as I wait in London for my next trip out there. I have to go back.

Linda woke me from my slumber and we began our descent. It didn’t take half as long to get down because we arse-sled most of the way. Arse Sliding! It really is the way forward, and down. Linda descended the first section, I intended to be quick to follow but for my desperate urge to piddle. Well, I had been holding it in for about 4 hours. When Linda reached the bottom with a bump and a spray of snow I very nearly did pee myself so I knew there was no way I’d be able to attempt the slide as I’d either go as soon as my bum hit the snow and I would definitely go when I landed in a heap at the bottom. So, I did what any self respecting wildebeast would do and utilised an overhang of snow over the footpath as my shield. I had no choice. Good job I was quick though as some patterned legginned women came hurtling over the ridge about 3 minutes later. I sat in the snow and pushed myself down. Weeeeeeeeeeeee! I expected to come to a halt where there was a big patch of gauzy heather, but no, I just went right on and flew right over it. Hysterical. We did a couple more similar burns, and they were burns due to the snow on our skin, then we were about half way down. The rest of the journey down was quite quick but my feet were beginning to hurt a little. Everyone was really friendly as we passed them. We sat on a rock briefly but realised there were tons of mozzies and then started on our second hitching session. We walked surprisingly far considering it was obvious we’d only be going to Seward (9 miles down the road) and we’d just been for a trek. However, we did get a ride eventually, from the guys, who were both recent graduates in Business.

They dropped us downtown so me and Linda went to the Apollo again. The same waiter was there. We’d only been seated for about 5 minutes before the guys walked in, is there no escape? I had lots of greek salad and stuffed aubergine and pasta. The waiter was amusing - he said he was from just down the road from us, he lived in Spain and was on his gap year. I suppose in comparison to Alaska he is only down the road. We were toying with the idea of getting a taxi back to the B+B but ended up walking. Mike had caught the Railroad today and would be flying back home.

We took our boots off by the door as the sign requested, we thought we better oblige at least once before we left. Had a nice bath and went to bed.

Friday 23rd June

Breakfast was possibly the nicest breakfast I have ever eaten in my life, in stark contrast to MaltoMeal. Hey, worst and best in one trip. It consisted of French Toast (Linda reckoned it was bread and butter pudding but I’m not sure. It had eggs and brown sugar and tasted perfect served with fresh wild berries, mmmm. Plus freshly squeezed orange of course. After a second helping, a chat, loading our packs into the lounge, I donned my stinky boots and we headed off once more.

Our aim for today was to do the real touristy things prior to catching the Alaska Railroad at 6pm. So we went to the Seward Sealife Centre. This place was one of those places that gives me a headache. A bit like art galleries and museums. Although I find them really interesting there’s just something about the stuffy atmosphere and controlled environment that that makes me feel a little ill. This was more like a sanctuary and laboratory to be honest. In fact, it was pretty horrific seeing these animals in captivity after seeing them in their natural habitat. I expect they are only here as they can’t be released anymore, but could they have been? We saw Harbour Seals, Steller Sea Lions, Puffins, Common Muerres. The most interesting thing for me was actually the Sea Cucumber, I thought it was rather unpleasant but when I touched it it felt quite nice. Hermit crabs are pretty funky too.

After looking around the very tacky gift shop we came across the pictures that we’d seen in Valdez. Midnight Dreary and Family Ties were my favourites. The difference with them here was that they were framed and there was additional artwork that had gone into the framing, which really enhanced the pictures. If I could have carried the I probably would have bought both of them. Instead I intend to phone up and get them sent out, I doubt if I ever will though. Hopefully I’ll be able to keep the pictures in my head for the time being.

We took a look into the ‘gallery’, expecting to find some really good pictures or photos, we’d been saving this until the last day. However, there wasn’t really a fantastic range to choose from. I bought a limited edition photo (print) of Denali with a moose in the foreground and a silver bracelet with bears on it.

From here we went to the ever popular Apollo restaurant for ANOTHER Greek salad, lavely.

Linda got some cash from a peculiar machine in the back of a shop which looked like it sold bargain clothes but in fact some were Patagonia and Carhart at very competitive prices.

The sun wasn’t letting us down as we walked along the RV park and the harbour. I wondered why one of the van owners stared at me for staring at his wind ornament, surely they put it there for people to look at? We visited a couple more of the touristy shops, I bought another couple of postcards and Linda bought an ULU. I even managed to persuade myself that I really wanted the huge Alaska map from the Kenai Park ranger office.

We’d learned the ‘must plan’ rule that appears to apply in Alaska so I telephoned a number in my Insight to Alaska book (bought for me as a leaving pressie from ex-work) so as to find somewhere to stay that night in Anchorage. I also called the Northern Lights Hotel to try and blagg a room for us for the Saturday night but was told to call back later, which I did and was successful. We were booked into a B+B owned by Joanna, on South Circle, Garden Quarters in Anchorage. One less hassle for us to think about when we got there.

On the way back up to the B+B on Benson Drive, we popped into the Railroad information offices, cunningly disguised as two carriages to fox lost tourists, to check exactly where the boarding ‘platform’ was. Richard, father of the house (the B+B), very kindly offered to give us a lift down to the station with our packs and now very awkward hand luggage. Bless him.

There was just time to take a few pictures of the famous Railroad carriages and have a sit down in the information centre. This centre consisted of 4 carriages in a diamond shape with steps going up to them. In the middle there was a boardwalk with a beer garden table. I sat down in the boiling sun with the hand luggage (packs had been promptly swiped and loaded onto the train) and waited as Linda went to find a drink. It was 17.10. I had a lovely view of a very fine young man fixing the mountain bikes at the hire place. He kept my roaming eye occupied for a short while until I realised how desperately close to boarding time (17.30) it was getting. Still no sign of Linda, where was she?, it doesn’t take this long to get a drink surely. I was just starting to collect the baggage and panic, when Linda came up the steps. She was carrying two bottles of Ocean Spray orange juice. She’d also stopped off in one of the gift shops and bought me and her a little wooden pill box with Chinese engraving on it, mine said ‘friendship’ which I thought was really cool.

Next manoeuvre was to await boarding. We seemed to be sitting in the elderly people’s carriage. Our seat was a dome seat in the Kenai Fjords tours carriage. One German guy spoke to us, opening the conversation with ‘you lost’. Me and Linda looked at each other with a look of disgust and said angrily ‘lost what?’ He was referring to Euro 2000, as if we’d been following that in The Last Frontier.

The journey was awesome, as all the books and conversationalists agree. From wind-blown luscious grasses, to sprawling mud flats with meandering streams, to vast open spaces flanked by snow capped mountain ranges, to vertical sided gorges harbouring Dall sheep, and rolling grass land with moose galloping over them. We saw dead trees from the ‘64 earthquake rising up from lakes, we saw canyons and waterfalls tumbling hundreds of feet, we saw woodland, ice and snow land and we even saw the spray of a beluga whale in an estuary. Magnificent, and all set to a backdrop of mid afternoon sunshine and clear blue skies. There were even a few sightings of the rare human being trekking or mountain biking along the route of the railroad. Kite flyers and cyclists waved as this triumphant machine blasted its way through the wilderness. What a dream. I spent most of the time leaning out of the window in between the carriages as the reflections were too harsh in the dome for photography. I was plagued by a man who obviously envied my photographic composure and hassled me to let him in every five minutes.

So we were well on our way to the city of Anchorage and I was dreaded getting there. After being in the back of beyond for a fortnight I didn’t feel ready to be coping with the hustle and bustle of city life. God help me when I get back to London, Anchorage is only home to some 250,000 people! The ‘big village’ I believe they call it.

The scenery all around was imbued with a kind of balmy evening glow, luminescent waters and a pinky hue to the Chugach range, Anchorage’s big brother. Still, despite the idyllicism of it all I couldn’t quash the lump in my throat which arose due to my awareness that I had left the true wilderness behind, probably for a very long time. The guys in the carriage were fascinated at the site of a locomotive and were engaged in stories of mutual military experiences. I was dumb and sat there blinking at the striking linearity of the infrastructure here and the uniform avenues. A feeling of dread and claustrophobia set in at the sight of the city. My dream was coming to an end.

When we pulled into the depot, me and Linda were the last to leave our carriage, the Kenai Fjords Wildlife Express. We erred on the side of patience when confronted with elderly Americans in a desperate bid to protect our treasured photographs from squashage.

Upon leaving the carriage everybody conglomerated in one place waiting for their luggage to arrive in one of the pallets carried over by forklift. Ultimately we waited in the lobby and waited for people to bring the stuff in. I popped to the loo and upon my return collected my pack and we made our way to the front of the station to collect a cab. This proved harder than we thought, the first guy we stopped to ask hadn’t even heard of South Circle. A small seed of doubt emerged, a) did the place we were staying in not exist at all or b) was it so far out of Anchorage that no-one’s ever heard of it. Unfortunately the latter supposition was closest to the truth. It cost us $16 of thereabouts to get there. Considering I specified that we wanted somewhere quite central as we didn’t have a car I might have know that we would be put somewhere like this. So off we went at various parallels and right angles until we reached a leafy cul-de-sac with rather large houses. It looked like a relatively wealthy area. We had a little difficulty locating the number 1007 but eventually we got it. I dived out the cab first to knock on the door whereupon I was greeted by a middle aged woman with elegantly grey almost white hair. I think she was wearing slippers or sandals. She looked very summery in a light flowing dress. Seemed a little posh though and I instantly felt nervous about soiling her beautiful home with our stinky boots and muddy trousers. A home of many floors and compartments. We were shown some of the other guests, our room and the shower. I think the shower was for our use only as it was located on the very ground floor out of everyone’s way. The bathroom however was on the next floor up, it had 2 sinks! It was around about this time I realised I had terribly stinky feet, no doubt precipitated by the fact that I had been wearing the same socks for a couple of days and the boots for a fortnight. Joanna very kindly bought our tea and biscuits to our room as we declined to sit in the lounge with the other guests. There were only two and we were really tired. We imposed ourselves immediately by surreptitiously asking where the nearest phone box was, our host very obligingly allowed us the use of her home phone. Local calls are free anyway. So I called the Northern Lights in a bid to secure our room for the following evening.