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THE PENNINE
WAY Start - Edale, England
2 7
1
M
I L E S Finish -
Kirk Yetholm, Scotland
A rather long but fairly easy day even
with 8 summits, 4 of which are minor peaks, within a very tough 9 miles of very
strenuous walking. From the start it was practically all uphill all the way to
Cross Fell that is the highest point on the whole Pennine way at 2930 ft.
However, Cross fell is the last summit of the day after Knock Fell, Great Dun
Fell and Little Dun Fell, and by the time you arrive there you know all of the
hard work is behind you for the day and from here a gentle stroll is the order
of the rest of the day. We had planned to have our main break after the 9 miles
on top of Cross Fell. However, after settling down for our lunch on Cross Fell,
we were suddenly sent running after we discovered a wasps nest above our head in
the shelter. We made a quick escape with out incident. The hardest part of today
had been cleared and the time was only 12-30 P.m. after we left Cross Fell.
After leaving Cross Fell we did another 7.5 miles to Garrigill in 2 hours, due
to the easy downhill nature of the section.
After all that we had worn ourselves out by the time we
arrived at Garrigill, and the last 4 miles to Alston dragged on, but we were
in good time and we took a leisurely pace over the final stretch. We stopped
at Alston Y.H.A which is right on the side of the footpath which you walk
down. Tomorrow we are going to have a planned rest day so that we can look
around the town and visit Alston steam railway.
From Dufton the Pennine way takes
you back up the decent that was lost on the way down from High Cup Nick
yesterday. This ascent starts just about as soon as you start the day with a
sharp climb up to Knock Fell. During this section the footpath takes you down a
very shaded path with lots of gates every 250 metres or so, but very few stiles.
To be honest, there is so many gates that you can easily fall into a rhythm of
walking a few metres, stopping, opening a gate, walking through the gate,
closing the gate and walking on, that is unless you are a person that likes to
use styles, thus making this section quite a laborious walk.
After the sharp and exhausting
climb to the summit of Knock Fell, via the minor summits of Knock Pike and
Dufton Pike, you are at the first major summit of the day. At this point you
have already climbed just under 2000 ft in the last 4 miles. This means over
the next 5 miles you have 3 major, and 2 minor summits. From here the tops
slope down a little before climbing to the same height that you have just you
climb Great Dun Fell. This summit has an ugly "golf ball" type structure on it
which is a radar and air-ground-air radio station. Also this hill has a record
under its belt for wind speed. In January 1974 an average wind speed of 106
mph ripped across this summit over a 3 hour period. From here you go over to
Little Dun Fell that is actually a few feet, higher than Great Dun Fell, but
is still called the smaller one of the two hills as the physical size of the
summit and other dimensions and appearance of the Little Dun Fell is not so
large as the Great Dun Fell.
The next long awaited thing
that comes along is Cross Fell at 2930 ft, which is the highest point on the
Pennine Way. Near the summit there are several cairns which leads to the trig
point or Ordnance Survey obelisk what ever you want to call it, which is the
summit of Cross Fell. A long decent of over 7 miles takes you down to
Garrigill with very few ascents, but where there is, it is little more than a
levelling out of the gradient. Cross Fell is properly in very dry weather,
about the wettest place on the Pennine way that you have to walk on. This is
because Cross Fell is believed to be the source of an unnamed river, but even
this fact is not certain as the water seems to come from deep beneath the
ground. About half way down the decent you soon come to Greg's hut. This was
transformed from a miner's cottage to a mountain rescue hut in May 1972 in
memory of John Gregory. John died in this area in the early 70's after falling
on Cross Fell and thus demonstrates that this can be a very lethal part of the
Pennines, especially in bad weather. The hut has all the basic facilities
needed to help tired, stranded or injured walker, that is apart from a
telephone. From here the track leads up hill for the last time today before
Garrigill. For the rest of the walk to Garrigill a clear track takes you down
to the rather large village.
From Garrigill you follow a
river all the way and it is very hard to get lost as there is only one path to
follow, thus meaning there is only one way to go. The Youth Hostel is
impossible to miss as long as you are not looking at the river at the time you
walk past it. This is because the Hostel was purpose built mainly for the use
of Pennine way walkers as it is positioned beside the track, not 30 yards from
the footpath and 50 yards from a very pleasant spot by the river.
Here due to this being the last
major town before Kirk Yetholm, and you need a rest day, I suggest that you
have on here. There is plenty to do here, and if you like steam trains you can
go on an hour long ride on some restored original trains.