Twenty-eight miles to go at the
start for a one day crossing of the Cheviots, for relative newcomers to
walking does hurt, but nearly three years on now and I properly would be
willing to try it again
Anyway lets start with the exit
of Bryness. You start the day with a forest track, that takes you up a short
but physically demanding climb. This climb is only 3/4 of a mile long but it
is one of the steepest on the entire walk, an average gradient of about 1:3.
However, it is by a long way the hardest climb of the journey. What a way to
start a literal "Marathon and a bit."
When you are at the top of
Bryness Hill don't forget to look down into the valley that you have just
scrambled out of in the last few minutes - a 700 ft climb on an overgrown
forest path.
From here though you can forget
all the problems the climb has given you by doing an easy 3 miles with an
average ascent of 100 ft a mile over rough but enjoyable moor land, to the
edge of the forest that you have followed for the last little while. The edge
of the forest however has more cause for celebration than just general walkers
know about. Open the gate and welcome yourself to Scotland; for now, because
in about 1 mile you will be re-crossing the border fence again into England
and there you will stay for the next 15 miles before re-entering the border
The re-crossing point is at
Chew Green with another gate properly about 5 hours away at least
From here the pace is able to
be picked up, to a more regular trot as the fear of getting lost is
practically nil as from here until you have practically finished the walk you
follow the border fence all the way.
Sadly the area is not as good
as it may look on the surface. The path you are following is the edge of the
M.o.D. firing squad. (Ministry of Defence). Most unfortunately on that day
that we were walking the M.o.D. was giving a lot of reminders that, that was
the case as they were doing bombing practising on the moor land of the area.
For the safety of people who do
walk near M.o.D. territory here are some rules and information about where to
go and where not to go.
-
DO NOT walk on or touch
anything metal or plastic around the area.
-
DO NOT stray into M.o.D.
territory there could be land lands.
-
M.o.D. territory is clearly
marked in prominent places with red flags and big bold signs. From there is
M.o.D. territory.
From Chew Green after following
the fence for miles, during which there is just nothing to write about apart
from the ever increasing undulation of the path. The only real things to write
about is 4 small hills named Wedder hill, Lamb Hill, Beefstand hill and the
slightly harder one Windy Gyle which takes you over 2000 ft, to 2034 ft, the
highest point reached since leaving Cross fell 80 miles behind you. This summit
isolated as it is does have a Pennine way record. It prides it's self with the
highest trig point on the whole walk, just by a few feet. It is also called
Russell's Cairn in memory of Lord Francis Russell who died here in 1585. The
scenery does change once in all that time of traversing the 4 summits. Just a
few metres from Lamb hill there is a small mountain rescue hut. From Windy Gyle
which is the half way point and a perfect place for lunch you enter Scotland
again, but guess what. In about 2 miles you will be back in England again.
However for the amount of time that you are in Scotland it is a very enjoyable
time. Heading down hill all the time until the time comes to open the gate and
walk back into England by way of the Border Gate. Here Pennine way walkers
divide into two groups, those who are going to retire into the valleys below and
the ones who are going for a one day clearance of the Cheviots.
Once again once you are back in
England the fence is as always your guide. It first leads you to Butts Road at
1718 ft soon after that Kings Seat at 1743 ft which is not as majestic as it
may sound. All it is, is just large rocks scattered about the area. From Kings
Seat, Score Head at 1910 ft. comes in to view. All these climbs are hardly
noticed and in many cases are not even put on the map due to the very slight
nature of them. However Cairn Hill is, at 2419 ft it is the highest point for
the rest of the Pennine way unless you are going to do the Cheviot which is
over 200 ft higher. This is not advised as it would add over 3 miles onto the
walk, as you will have to backtrack your steps from the top, especially if a
one day clearance is being attempted. It is also extremely easy to get lost if
a mist comes down on the path which it does very regularly due to the
surprisingly faint texture of the path.
After doing or not doing the
Cheviot, the route gradually drops down into a valley but that is after you
get to the end of the cliff by way of Auchope Cairn. A steep but safe path
leads you down towards a mountain rescue hut which is at the bottom of the
valley. If when you get here your water bottles look a little empty, it is
wise to stop. This is the first and last time today water is reachable. If you
leave your sacks in the mountain rescue hut, you can scramble down with your
water bottles to a fast flowing river by means of a steep but short drop. You
are now entering the Hen Hole. This massive hole is formed entirely by nature,
where water tumbles down. But one thing though I must say is "you still have 7
miles to go and a lot of climbing to do."
From the valley a steep and
unrelenting climb greets you. The Schil. It might look tall and mean but hit
it with a real feeling of determination. This is the last major climb of the
walk. From here the last summit is seen, Black Hag. Don't worry Black Hag is
about 100 ft lower than The Schil and is a very easy climb. Around the summit
you cross for the last time in this walk into Scotland.
Also for the last time does the
route splits in two. However, which ever diversion you take victory is in
sight. As always I will lead you along the main or official route first.
THE OFFICIAL ROUTE
Mainly there is nothing to say.
You pass the sign saying Kirk Yetholm 4 miles in one direction and Edale 267
miles in the other and all the while you lose height like a stone. For 2 miles
after the sign just green grass and patch work fields start to appear in the
horizon. After 2 miles you come to the horizon and walk beside these fields,
and also join up with the last river. You now are now on a farm road heading
towards a river bridge. This is the meeting up place with the alternative
route walkers.
THE ALTERNATIVE
ROUTE
From here people with excess
energy can go on a short climb up to White Law. This is mainly used by people
who have spilt this walk into 2 parts. It doesn't add much on to the walk but
it is a lot harder than the main route thus deterring people clearing the
Cheviots in one shot. From here the route goes down like the main route before
joining back up at the river bridge.
THE LAST MILE
From the river bridge you
continue along a quite road which gently slopes down hill. However, if you
think you are finished, think again. Ahead one last climb is beckoning. No
doubt with your energy levels sagging you start to tackle it. Whether
zigzagging to take out the steep gradient or tackling directly, when you get
to the top, you may expect to see the small town ahead. Unfortunately it is
covered by a small hill which you walk around. Just follow the road round and
suddenly from around a corner Kirk Yetholm is there, you only see the finish
less than 100 metre from it. Crawl, stumble whatever you like for the last 25
yards to the Border Hotel touch the wall and tell yourself that you have made
it. Edale now 271 miles away Kirk Yetholm 0 millimetres away. Either you now
head for the Youth Hostel 250 yards away, or lodge at the Border Hostel and
you have finally finished.
Day 18 -
Summary
- Personal Report -
Analysis -
Facilities
REFRESHMENTS
None
ACCOMMODATION
A decent may be made from the ridge at grid reference O.S 80 -
872161 (the crossing point with Clennell Street.) to farms which offer
accommodation, this however will add several miles to the journey. A youth
hostel, hotel/public house and guest houses at Kirk Yetholm and nearby Town
Yetholm
FOR EMERGENCIES
A small wooden hut on the line of the way situated at
Yearning Saddle (O.S 80 - 804129)
A small wooden hut on the line of the way between Auchope
Cairn and The Schil (O.S 74 - 880201)
Day 18 -
Summary
- Personal Report -
Analysis -
Facilities
Most Popular Next Links -
Day 18 Maps;
Day 18 Photos;
P.W. Index Page;
Index Page