Walk 1

Termignon -> Abri Forestier du Suffet -> le Coetet -> le Lac Blanc -> Lac de Bellecombe -> la Chaviere -> Pont du Villard -> Termignon 16.75km, 1115m ascent

Our first walk began with a climb through the Foret du Suffet which meant shade from the scorching heat.  As we'd started quite late we stopped for lunch at the Abri Forestier du Suffet, a hut that hikers can stay in overnight.  Already the profusion of colours that are the alpine flowers was almost blinding and as we climbed out of the trees their abundance seemed overwhelming and immensely uplifting.

Having left the forest we climbed steeply to a group of 'mud columns', enormous pillars of soft mud and rock that are gradually eroding but which stand like church steeples high above the valley.  From here it was an easy pull to Lac Blanc.  The lac seemed far from blanc when we arrived, the afternoon breeze and general haze ensuring that there was no chance of the snow capped peaks reflecting in the lake.

We continued climbing from the lake past the refuge to another group of smaller lakes, the Bellecombe group.  These lakes are very interesting looking out onto the valley of the Doron river.  Unfortunately we got a bit lost and didn't have time to stop and stare.  We eventually found our way and descended down through beautiful meadows past ancient chalets and finished the walk on a route with sign boards denoting medicinal plants.
THE VANOISE NATIONAL PARK - WEEK 1 - JULY 2004
Alps Summer 04
Walk 2

Termignon -> Sentier de Decouverte -> Pre Chamois -> Refuge du Cuchet -> Lanslebourg -> Chemin du Petit Bonheur -> Termignon 19.75km, 890m ascent

A bright, sunny day and very hot.  We climbed up the steep path up the Bois de la Genevra through forest full of enormous ant nests made from piles of pine needles.  One had to be careful where one stopped for fear of standing in an ant trail!  The path remained steep, lizards darting out of our way, until we emerged on the edge of a meadow at Pre Chamois and could continue on more of a contouring path, past some beautiful chalets with labourers mowing the meadows of flowers - the air smelt wonderful, to the pretty Refuge du Cuchet with its fabulous views out to Italy.

We jogged the steep descent past brown cows, their bells clanging just like in The Sound of Music!  As we neared the village of Lanslebourg, our first sight was of a church spire and the heavy stone roofs that are the staple for the area.  An attractive welcome to quite a busy village.  We sat outside a cafe and enjoyed a well earned Orangina and ice cream.

The return route was fairly flat and fairly uninspiring but it meant we got back without too much effort and could reflect on a great day's walking.
   
Walk 3

Entre Deux Eaux -> Lacs des Lozieres -> Sentier Balcon -> Refuge de l'Arpont -> Montafia -> Termignon 20km, 720m ascent

Another scorching day.  We took the Navette, a small bus, up the steep, narrow, twisting road to Entre Deux Eaux.  The journey was pretty harrowing as the driver obviously felt he needed to demonstrate that you could actually accelerate towards oncoming traffic on a single carriageway road with a steep drop the only apparent avoidance route for the hapless car drivers!

Somewhat shaken we set off up the zig-zag climb to the Lacs des Lozieres.  The climb was rich with colourful flowers and great views and it was difficult not to stop every 50 metres to take a photograph.  Eventually we reached the lakes that are in a stunning position beneath high mountains and deep blue skies.  The contrast of the snow, sky and flowers was almost surreal.

Liz drew some pictures at the lake and then we continued on past a group with a heavily loaded but very content pack horse, past a wriggling mass of enormous tadpoles and into higher, harsher scenery.  Gone was the lush meadows, replaced by grey moonscapes, snow fields and rushing grey-white torrents fed from the glaciers above us.  The grey rocks sparkled with gold and silver (possibly mica) and the sun seemed harsh as we climbed up to 2561m.

Then we began to descend a little and reached the Refuge de l'Arpont where we crammed in some delicious tarte myrtilles before continuing along the balcony path.  Not long after leaving the refuge we came across a female ibex stood right in the path.  By the time I'd got my camera out she'd moved from the ideal position but I was able to get close enough to take a picture and then we saw a male higher up beneath a large rock.

Further on and we came across an enormous water spout gushing water and spray from between boulders.  Katie and I climbed up for a closer look then we all continued on.  Suddenly we heard a shrill whistle and knew there must be a marmot nearby.  Sure enough, a young marmot was stood on a rock acting as look out and we stood staring at each other for some time before he ducked into his hole.  This made Katie's day!

The final section involved a climb up to a natural bridge over the roaring Risseau du Grand Pyx.  The glacial waters gush down, carving the limestone into wonderful shapes before dropping off an enormous waterfall into the Doron.

Eventually we descended down a beautiful path through yet more flowers and back into Termignon.
Walk 4

La Goulaz -> Vincendieres -> Averole -> Plan du Pre -> La Goulaz 7.5km, 270m ascent

More bright sunshine and an easier day.  We drove to La Goulaz and parked up then walked up the valley towards the Refuge de l'Averole.  First stop was Vincendieres.  An amazing, ramshackle little hamlet with wooden chalets apparently piled on top of one another, mostly rundown and with piles on logs and branches squeezed into every space available.  Above the hamlet is a beautiful little chapel only accessible by walking up through the meadows behind the chalets.

From Vincendieres we walked on through more attractive meadows to Averole.  This is the first rundown alpine village that we've seen actually being restored!  The sturdy and attractive church is currently undergoing restoration and many of the other buildings are being tended to.  Averole is perched on the side of a steep gorge, almost built out on wooden piers in places!

From Averole we continued up to just below the refuge where Katie played in the freezing river amongst purple, pink and yellow flowers that cling to the rocks and earth in the middle of the river itself.

We returned along an initially very attractive path beneath the brooding mass of the Glacier de Charbonnel.  Signs warned ATTENTION, DANGER, CHUTE DE SERACS and we kept looking up nervously but eventually reached the open plains at the lower end of the valley and returned to the car unscathed.
 
Walk 5

Bonneval sur Arc -> les Roches -> les Buffettes -> le Mollard -> le Villaron -> Rocher du Chateau -> Bonneval sur Arc 15.75km, 775m ascent

Yet another day of great weather.  We drove to Bonneval sur Arc, a village that has been kept as free as possible from modern ugliness but which has become a major tourist trap, and climbed up a steep path through beautiful flowers past donkeys and goats and the sound of cow bells.

The path took us over the gushing Ruisseau des Roches via a couple of loose poles(!) and past some ruined chalets dated 1908.  We ate our lunch sat on the balcon in amongst some amazingly blue flowers with a panorama of mountains spread out before us.  As we continued along the balcony path an enormous brown marmot ran in front of us and then we saw two more, one tore up grass and then took it down into its burrow.

The descent to Villaron was steep and dusty but the low level path back to Bonneval through meadows being harvested by labourers using wooden rakes was quite beautiful.  Halfway back and we came across the Rocher du Chateau where we found pre-historic rock paintings in ochre of reindeer being hunted.  Unexpected and amazing!
Walk 6

l'Ecot -> les Arberes -> le Saut -> Lac du Pys -> Refuge du Carro -> le Montet -> Tuiliere -> l'Ecot 18km, 855m ascent

We got up early and drove to the little, high village of l'Ecot.  This is obviously a popular starting point for walks as the very large parking areas were nearly full even at 9:00am.  We walked up past the pretty little chapel and partially ruined village and began climbing up a very attractive route to le Saut where we crossed a cascade that looked like a lace fan.

Eventually we reached the beautiful Lac du Pys where we stopped for Liz to draw.  From the lake we dropped down, seeing an eagle dive down into the valley, and then climbed once more past a group of goats to the Refuge du Carro which is at 2759m, situated next two two lakes separated by a narrow ridge of glacial moraine.  Bizarrely, Lac Noir is a deep blue green and looks like a Lake District tarn whereas Lac Blanc is a bright turquoise, the difference is startling.

Having rested by the lakes we descended down an attractive path through more beautiful flowers to the Riv l'Arc whose glacial source we had gazed out upon earlier.
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