Falkensteinian Gentlemens' Attire

A brief outline.

Here is some informaion on the finer points and on suitable accessories for the period i.e. 1870-1880ish.  

For wear at Dinner:

Uniforms , if your character is entitled to wear one (but no weapons), otherwise a black evening suit with tails, a tuxedo (which is the height of fashion in the United States  but not really seen in Europa for a year or two yet). or failing these a dark suit. For this dinner which is informal, a black bow-tie , white ties being only for fully formal functions. You could just about get away with a black cravat if your character is a little lacking in social graces. Shirts, preferably wing-collars but a narrow fold-down collar (called a 'Shakespere') will pass though a little sartorially inelegant and all shirts must be white, of course. Waistcoats can be loud and offensive (unlike the guests, I hope) , preferably ones which button up quite high. Black shoes or boots  are fine in most modern formal styles. Overcoats, often double-breasted or capes are right if the weather requires their use.

Adventuring clothing:

Dark suits are good and even light coloured ones if your character is a little 'flash'. In fact, the style for 'lounge jackets' had started, so the jacket and trousers don't even need to be matching like a suit, note that these jackets had wide lapels .The wing-collar or Shakespere shirt is suitable with a cravat, which may be black or grey, or a black bow tie. If adventuring or engaging in physical sports even a gentleman may wear a loose, silk or cotton neckerchief of any colour. Again, uniforms for those characters  who have them. Norfolk jackets or tweed suits are perfect for the outdoor type. and brown or black ankle boots called 'Balmorals'.

Undergarments:

For winter, men generally wore nice, itchy ,woollen combinations but those of a less sturdy disposition wore cotton or linen. In the summer, either cotton or linen boxer shorts and a short-sleeve vest or a combination version with these joined together was worn.

Accessories:

Gloves are white for formal wear, grey or black for everyday use. Top hats are worn for all types of occasions. Bowler hats (or derbys), if middle class and tyrolean or tweed hats for outdoor pursuits. Wide brimmed straw hats for walking in the sun are fine but note that straw boaters for men don't come into fashion until the very late 1880s. Middle and upper class men often had canes with tops of silver or ivory, if well off ,or brass or silver-plate if not so plush. The only jewellery men wore was tie pins (not clips), signet rings, pocket watch chains and cufflinks, even the latter were most usually plain pearl, gold or silver, unless your character is 'flash'  or an American  (therefore obviously not a true gentleman) in which case they may be patterned. Tie pins can be quite fancy and those bearing your initials or university badge are very fashionable.

A Quiet Note on Manners:

*A gentleman never removes his coat or cravat when in company.

*At dinner always address the people to your left and right and do not shout across the table.

*A gentleman never curses in the presence of a lady.

*A gentleman does not speak of low sports in front of a lady (horse racing is fine but not its gambling aspects but hunting, fishing & croquet are all acceptable) .

*Never address your social betters first, unless you are on intimate terms with them

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