Falkensteinian Ladies' Attire

A brief outline.

Here is some informaion on the finer points and on suitable accessories for the period i.e. 1870-1880ish.

Evening wear:

For formal evening wear nothing but the finest ball gown will do, off-the-shoulder and dripping with lace ,ribbons and silk flowers, however, for informal occasions an evening bodice (this can be lower cut and a little more off-the-shoulder, in the style of a ball gown, than a day bodice) with the same skirt worn in the day or a lighter one. Flat bottomed dancing slippers were worn with gowns whilst the normal ankle boots were worn at informal functions.

Day wear:

A 'walking outfit is a must this may have a dress or skirt, sometimes cut as high as the ankle to keep it out of the mud!  High boots cover the ankles so sensibilities are not  shocked. The day bodice is usually more modest in its style than the evening bodice and is worn over a  chemise which buttons up to the neck. Jackets are either short-waisted or have a flounced skirt to them which covers the waist, They may either match the dress/skirt or be brightly contrasting depending upon the fashion-conciousness of your character, or perhaps the influence of her more staid family. Ankle length button up boots with a wider, medium height heel (stiletto heels didn't come in until the 1890s)  or even flat-soled walking-style boots are suitable. These were black ,brown or coloured to match the skirt, similar boots in fashion now.

Adventuring wear:

Most wear walking outfits in heavier fabrics and tweeds for the country look but this is Castle Falkenstein and 'fast' young adventuresses  are wearing riding breeches and boots like the men, some even go so far as to add flamboyant military-style cuts to their jackets too!  Flat-soled ankle boots are fine and victorian styled ones are in fashion at present.

Undergarments:

Some ladies may not fancy the 'skin up' approach but this is for those that do. The corset was well and truly essential for the look of the period and the heavy wired crinoline had just been  left behind as the crinolette, cage bustle and bustle took its place. Under the corset went the chemise or combinations, then over it went the 'corset cover' which was topped by the bodice. Knickers were knee-length and seamless at the crotch. All stockings were opaque and fastened just above the knee with garters or ribbons.

Accessories:

Parasols are the equivalent to the gentlemens' cane and most upper and middle class women would not be without one, especially in summer. Hats are varied, mainly based on wide-brimmed or very small straw hats with all sorts of flowers, lace and ribbons to adorn them. Jewellery has changed little in a hundred years but check out the styles first, you can't go wrong with strings of pearls, cameos and chokers. Another important item was gloves, with kid leather or silk being the most fashionable. Light coloured gloves for evening wear, elbow-length ones for sleeveless gowns and wrist- length, dark gloves for day wear. Lace gloves are not truly fashionable until the early 1880s but you can get away with them for the evening. Fans are a must, for practical reasons like cooling yourself in all that clothing in the summer.

A Quiet Note on Manners:

*At dinner always address the people to your left and right and do not shout across the table.

*A lady is polite and gracious under fire, returning rudeness with wit.

*A lady always keeps her knees together but never crossed (how do you tell under those dresses?)

*Never address your social betters first, unless you are on intimate terms with them.

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