It is 12:42 and I am sitting in The Green Dragon Inn, Welton (the pub in which Dick Turpin was arrested) waiting for my food to arrive (jacket potato with curry) on the first day of my walk. It seems an appropriate place to begin the log! Incidentally, Mum bought the notebook for me from Safeway – 50 ruled sheets – I would have preferred a professional “reporter’s notebook” as used on previous walks [and on the boat – Ed] but I decided that this would suffice for this little walk by myself (what can happen that’s worth writing down?)
First of all some background to how I got here. We set off from Chapel at 6:12 last night (Friday) after I got home from work. I had packed up the night before (I made a checklist of course), and Mum packed during the day, so we were all ready. I rang Sue to let her know we were leaving and told her we would be there in about 2 hours. This turned out to be just about bang on. The roads were relatively empty (compared with the M6 in Birmingham!) considering it was Friday. We rolled in at 8:05. Sue was in the middle of preparing dinner (cottage pie). Mum had a cup of tea and Sue and I had a sherry. I emptied the car (I had brought 3 bags, well 2 rucksacks (the day sack and my old red one) and my overnight bag – I thought I’d have dressing gown and slippers whilst at Sue’s for the first 2 days – I will be going without such luxuries for 5 days Monday to Saturday). Then I opened a bottle of red, and dinner was ready. I forgot to mention that the minute we arrived Sue had put a bag of Corn Chips and a dip (Salsa) on the table, so I opened the bag and started munching, which Mum thought was terrible – “That’s why I put then there,” said Sue.
I called Rich down for dinner (getting a “Hello” in at the same time) and we tucked in. During dinner Sue mentioned that Charles was expecting me to join him at the Golf Club at 10:30 (10:15 at his house to walk! I opted to have a lift off Sue). After dinner, whilst Sue was loading up the dishwasher, Mum and I retired to the [small] sitting room. (We had been watching Only Fools and Horses during dinner – Granddad’s funeral and Uncle Albert turning up.) We finished the crossword in The Express (I forgot to get a Mail [pub at lunchtime – Fiona’s “leaving” do.]) Sue read, then went off to have a bath – read in the bath too! I did nothing! Later when Sue had had her bath we set off to the Golf Club. Charles had already left so we picked him up near the pub.
Sue stayed to have a half – I bought the first round – Guy and Joan turned up just after us – John was behind the bar – 2 lads I didn’t know drank up and left. Andy came in a little later – Sue paid for his pint (Shepherd Neame Canterbury Jack) since he had helped her to start her car that morning (she had flattened the battery). Charles bought the second round then we went on the quiz machine (Monopoly). Charles, Joan, Andy and me. As usual we didn’t win, or rather we put back in what we did win. I had a third pint – then a fourth (Guy) then Sue turned up to pick me up and I rather stupidly had a fifth (I had a thick head in the morning and felt like throwing up – but I got over it after walking for a couple of hours.) Home. Bed. Mum there already. 12:35, too late.
I woke (after getting out once in the night) when Sue started pottering round in the kitchen [directly beneath my bedroom] so I got up at 8:15 – too early! Sue had little sympathy for me (neither did I really). Drank a lot of orange juice – had tea and All-Bran. Sue got dressed – so did I. Mum appeared. We had breakfast on the patio of course. Sue said she did this every day in the summer, though not this summer (weather too bad). It was a cloudless day today – Sue said it usually bubbled up (clouds) later (this was true, but it was - and is at 1:32 [as I write this] now – pretty fine and hot all day).
We had decided to set off at 9:30 for a 10:00 start. I filled the water bottle, made sure I had the camera, put on my ‘boots’ [actually these were walking shoes I’ve had for years], packed the note book (essential!) and we set off for Hessle (pronounced Hezle). Uneventful journey; felt a bit sick in the car; went round a roundabout twice ‘cos Sue wasn’t sure where to go; did it right; did the last few hundred yards using the Wolds Way map.
The Ferryboat Inn was boarded up and there didn’t seem to be any plaque to mark the start of the Wolds way just a signpost with ‘Trans-Pennine Trail’ on it! Disappointing. We took some photos of the bridge [Humber] which looks very impressive from here (Hessle Haven [a shipyard] was a bit of a letdown). Sue took one of me starting the Way, then she said see you later (we agreed to meet up at 4pm in Brantingham). I set off towards the bridge.
Didn’t meet anyone until the viewing point – people walking their dogs etc. There were some tasteful newly built ‘docklands’ type properties along the waterfront here. Under the bridge (its big). Pub/Hotel by the shoreline – railway coming in from the right. Woman and boy walking a dog. Said hello. Had to walk on the [pebbly] beach here. There followed a long stretch with nothing much happening along a road between the railway and the water. Couple of trains came by. I found myself talking to myself – doing Monty Python sketches and so on – first signs of madness? The railway veered off to the right – met couple sat on a bench – then a man and a little girl on a bike at a grassy bit. More beach walking.
Reached wooden steps up of the beach into a wood. Walked past the backs of houses. There was a big sign saying No camping – Private Property etc. Wooden planked bridge over the railway – train later. Eventually come out of wood onto a major road which I had to cross by means of a footbridge. I must have been happy at this point because I started singing ‘I’m forever blowing bubbles’ (remember Zocko?). There is a sign on the other side of the road pointing into a strip of woodland – the first proper WW sign apart from a few acorns [the symbol of this and other National Trails] that I’d seen yet. Had a swig of water here. Cabins in the wood. Reach a minor road and a large quarry and another strip of wood (Bow Plantation). Metal stiles.
At one point I thought I’d gone too far [and thus strayed from the path] as it seemed to be taking an age to reach the ‘quarry road’ [described in my WW guide] but I decided this was just caused by my desire to get to the pub in Welton! I eventually came to multiple signs which pointed me in the right direction – took the quarry road down the hill into Welton – met some walkers coming up the hill – there was a stream running down the middle of the street in the village and it led into a little pond full of ducks – then there was the war memorial – then the pub – The Green Dragon Inn! Which is where I am now [as I write this]. I seem to have taken to writing my log in a shorthand form – trying to get it all down quickly and in short.
Had four pints of shandy in the pub – sat outside after eating lunch and wrote up the log. Took a leak in the pub before having my final pint and was just about ready to set off again when I realised I needed a crap – diarrhoea! (I had been twice in the morning after I got up). After a good dump, I saddled up and marched off at 14:15. Took a snap of the village looking back towards the pub. Too many trees though. Church bells had rung 2pm (at 2pm).
Set of up Dale Road past some nice houses with names like Old Stables and just Stables. Pass a mill pond (more ducks) then the last house where the metalled road becomes a grassy path (gate). This is Welton Dale. There is a posse of sheep in the middle of the path – but they are not dangerous (unlike a similar crowd which ‘went for me’ up above The Lamb one time). Took snap of the ‘delectable’ dale just after the sheep. WW disappears into a wood. There is supposed to be a mausoleum in the wood but I didn’t see one though there were plenty of signs saying ‘Private – No Public Access’ etc.
Reached a concrete road which is just marked as a bridle path on the map (is it a new road? I don’t think so). I was just about to follow the road to the right when I noticed a sign saying please use the footpath in the field. I do so. There is a nice house to my left which is Wauldby Manor. Turn L at sign to walk between yet another strip of woodland and a field. Meet an elderly couple. Meet some more walkers near Wauldby Dam. Builders are at work on the farm cottages (didn’t greet them). The path is described as undulating but it is more or less flat. Pass my first field full of cows – didn’t spot any bulls! (The first edition of the WW guide, which Sue loaned to me until I bought the new edition, had these fields especially marked with ‘danger bulls’ – the new edition does not have such mark ups – is this because there are no bulls any more [later on the walk some fields had ‘bull’ signs up though].) I reached a great meeting of the paths (Almondsbury?) – turned L to walk alongside a tall hedge, very gradually uphill to a road. Met the elderly couple again [who must have done a circular walk].
Phoned Sue [I took Mum’s mobile phone with me for emergencies and occasions like this] to say I’d be on time in Brantingham i.e. 4pm (it was 3:25 and there was just over a mile to go – half hour easy). Walked along road opposite where the path came out – ha to avoid 2 tractors (one was a beep-beep machine as per Hayfield Park but red not yellow [a kind of fork lift truck used on building sites like the one at Hayfield Park where Mum and I had just moved]). Then after a bend took a wide track – tried to keep to the shade but not too successful. Hot as I had told Sue. Starting to feel it in my legs and feet now. But compared with a sponsored 10 mile walk (for an Owl Sanctuary) that I’d done 2 years ago it was easy [today’s walk was also 10 miles]. Reach a metalled road and take it downhill (quite steeply nearer the village). Pass where WW goes off to R but I must go on to Brantingham to meet Sue – met some more walkers [and bikes freewheeling down the hill].
In the village at the bottom of the hill I can’t see where the pub is [which is where I’d agreed to meet Sue] so I just keep walking. It is exactly 4pm so it looks like I’m going to be a few minutes late. Finally reach the pub (Triton Inn) at the other end of the village opposite the Post Office at a junction. Sue has just arrived. I wave. Tell her I am going in the pub. There is a big sign ‘Open All Day’. We go in. It is a big breezy pub (as was the Green Dragon in Welton). We buy drinks and sit in the beer garden at the back – more shandy.
Sue has to go to Morrison’s to get some barbecue fuel and lighters etc. (we are going to have a BBQ tonight) so, after a brief detour to look at a house in B that Sue and Col were once thinking of buying (before they bought Highgate Farm), we go cross country towards Beverley. Shop. Home. Cup of tea. Then we fart about trying to light the BBQ [I claimed to have experience so I had to do it]. Succeed. Shower. Beer. Sue and Mum prepare food in the kitchen then we take it out into the garden and plonk it on the BBQ which is a bit too hot and starts flaming and pouring out smoke. Later we eat. Rich joins us – I eat too much as usual. Mum had a go at me about my diet and my drinking but Sue told her off. Owen phoned, then so did Col [but there wasn’t time to talk to him] (Col was in Canterbury [where Owen is at Uni and has just been bought a house] fixing up Owen’s garden, e.g. planting a hedge to replace a rotten fence). Sue washed my sweaty clothes ready for the morrow.
Did the crossword (Mum did most of it on her own). Sue phoned Col back. Then Col phoned Sue back. Had more cups of tea. Filled in the log. Sue shelled some peas and chopped beans [they grow a lot of their own veg]. Rich was bored and spent a lot of time building models out of some ‘Jengo-like’ wooden blocks. Had more tea and filled more of the log in. Sue went out into the garden to read [outside light] in the balmy evening. Mum watched Morse on telly. Perhaps we’ll have an early night?
I am now sat in the Tiger Inn in North Newbald (there is another pub, The Gnu Inn, but it said ‘Pubmaster’ on its sign, i.e. a chain, whereas this place is a Free House, privately owned). It is another hot day (not quite the blue skies of yesterday but hot enough). My feet hurt (incipient blister?) and I am quite tired. But I reckon it is just over 3 miles this afternoon, so I should manage to stroll that. Sue is picking me up at 4pm again (I did say 5pm but I think 4pm will be okay).
After I’d finished logging last night I went to join sue on the patio – it was getting dark – with a cup of tea. Sue was reading (The Forsyte Saga) but I did nothing. Later we finished off a bottle of wine (Sauvignon – a whole bottle) between us whilst Mum watched Morse (9pm – 11pm). It clouded up later. Sue and I talked about how this walking craze had started with Stu and Sue both doing it when Dave and I were kids (Sue walked from ages 15 to 18). I rang the Express Weather Call number to get the forecast for the next few days – it said Sunday & Monday showers/cloudy – Tuesday fine – after that changeable – so far, as I write this, it is a bit cloudy but otherwise fine. At 11pm we decided to go to bed. Cup of tea (Rich made it) then bed. Found Owen’s Star Trek Encyclopaedia to read (I usually do read this). Had a good night.
I heard Sue pottering about at 8am but decided to stay in bed until 8:30 – then Sue called up the stairs to say it was nearly 9 o’clock. So I got up. Had some Weetabix. Sue had poured me out some orange juice and made me a cup of tea, which was nice. Drank same. Got dressed. Mum appeared. Cloudy. Got ready and set off with Sue for Brantingham. Took a wrong turn and ended up going the long way round via South Cave [which was the first place I was headed towards today! We noticed the WW as we passed it]. Arrived at the Triton Inn at 10:05 and said see you later to Sue. Took a snap of the pub and the ‘lovably awful’ war memorial. Set off up the road to rejoin the WW.
Passed a few people on their way home from church. I could hear the sound of gurgling water coming from a roadside ditch. WW joins road from R just before the church. Soon reach place where I take the WW left up through some woods. This bit is rather awful because the landowner has seen fit to build a fence on either side of the path as it runs along a break in the trees – very silly. Did I say this bit was also uphill? And looking at the map there is another very steep bit coming up soon. I decide to take it steady! Soon reach the top of the rise and descend towards a farm. Then the very steep bit – nasty. Pass Mount Airy Farm on the top of the hill – two small girls (one on a pony) and a dog (which barks) – say good morning. The ‘path’ turns out to be a metalled road (private) that crunches its way (covered in small stones) to the main road (to South Cave which we used to get to Brantingham earlier).
Turn L along the road, then R where WW crosses the ditch on a little wooden bridge (broke off one of the planks!). Cross stream then another climb [not as steep as the nasty bit earlier]. Steady. Notice small group ahead of me (3 generations of females plus two dogs) – I am actually catching them up – later they step aside to let me pass. The path [which has been through a wood] descends to the top of Comber Dale on the left [now in the open]. Pass a couple of lads coming up the dale – they don’t continue on WW but turn L (as did the small group earlier). Comber Dale is quite pleasant. Meet some male walkers (older). Path zig-zags to the top of ‘ravine’ where I find it is crumbling away into the ravine – it will soon be impassable and will have to be re-routed or else some major repair work carried out. Reach an old railway line and follow it. Meet a couple of walkers (man and woman, he stripped to the waist) plus dog. Reach some wooden steps up the embankment to L (pointless because you could’ve reached the top of the embankment via a wide track on L 100m before). Forest path gradually climbs East Dale (passing a pointless bale of straw), getting steeper and steeper until it is very steep, then suddenly comes out in a field of wheat [the first of many such fields].
Walk around the field edge and reach the road [B1230 which is the road from North Cave to Walkington that I take every time I visit Sue] where I decide to have a swig of water. I need a pee but wait until I’m not near a main road to have it. Path has been rerouted along the road R then L. Signs to South Cave 3 miles (back) Goodmanham 7.5 miles (ahead). Reach another road, then a crossroads. Shortly find that WW goes off to L but it is not signposted – just a little yellow arrow! – and there is no stile unlike the book [people could get lost here]. I wonder at first if this is the right way (it later proves to be so) and also which side of the fence to walk – I chose to walk with hedge on R then cross over so that it is on L. The path is not very good but I soon come to a stile (followed by WW sign!) as I drop into the head of a dale (which leads into Swindale). Take a snap then follow the dry valley via a sheep trail into Swindale proper.
[This is as far as I got with the log in the Tiger Inn – resumed it later in my room at the Gate Inn Millington as I waited for the owners to turn up (a kind lady who had the key let me in)]
Swindale is a very long dry valley [over a mile], grassy with almost no discernable path. Pass a couple walking other way – say Hello – Nice Day. Pass a dewpond full of undergrowth and no water. As I stroll along, I am having a debate with myself – shall I take the route to Newbald suggested in the book (which branches off to L and up a steep hill to a road leading to the village) – or shall I keep going to the end of the valley where I meet a different road to Newbald? The second way is further but flat – just how tired am I? Another point in favour of the latter route is that if I go that way I will know the way out of the village to continue the WW [Newbald is off my map]. In the end I decide to take the former route up the hill – it is quicker (by 5 minutes!) and I’m sure I can cope with the hill. And it can’t be that difficult to find the right road out of Newbald.
I take the turn L via a swathe cut through the corn (wheat) and up through a planting of saplings. The path is faint but just about followable (is that a word?) [it’s not in my word processor’s dictionary anyway!]. Take the hill slowly – come out on the road where I take a swig of water (my reward for slogging up the hill) and set off down the road (down hill of course) to Newbald. A few cars.
In the village I wonder just where the pub is and what its called (I didn’t check this last night). I just keep walking, and eventually reach a green where I find that there are two pubs: The Gnu and The Tiger – I choose The Tiger (for reasons cited above).
The pub has a small bar (both the counter itself and the room!) though another room leads off this one to the rear. People are crowded round the bar, but I find a gap near the hatch and catch the landlord’s eye to order a pint of shandy. I manage to drink this in 5 minutes, and order another one plus some food – a waitress came round to take my order. I decide to have a ploughman’s. It arrives in just 10 minutes and is quite substantial – lots of stilton and cheddar [diet what diet?], plus hot French stick, coleslaw, salad and pickles. I wolf the lot down. I notice that it is quite busy in the pub – there is a local character with long grey hair, a grey beard, waistcoat, jeans and a studded belt. I start to write the log, but don’t get very far (see above).
I had a final pint and settled the bill (which was behind the bar) then set off for Arras, slightly later than anticipated (2:45 not 2:30). Took a snap of the green and the two pubs. I have decided that the road out of the village is the one on the other side of the green, which proceeds from more or less the same direction that I entered the village. I set off down it. The place I thought was school (mentioned in the book) is actually a Methodist chapel but there is a sign later saying school ahead so I know I’m on the right road.
Pass council houses. I note that there is a stream along one side of the road as there was in Welton yesterday. It disappears under the grass verge now and then and eventually altogether. Pass Beck’s Farm (also mentioned in book) and reach a road junction [I am now back on the map] – turn left. The road is signposted to Gardham and is uphill, so I slow down (just as I did this morning at the very steep bit). Soon reach the WW again as it comes in from the right. Shortly there is a farm track branching off left, which the WW takes. I pause here.
It is now 3:25 and I have 2 miles to go so I doubt whether I will make it to Arras by 4pm as I’d promised Sue. Decide to ring her. Just as I do so it starts to rain so I put on my cagoule (and of course the rain then stops!) Have a swig of water. Ring Sue. She says in answer to my suggestion that I ring her from Arras that if I do that I will be waiting 10 minutes so why doesn’t she just turn up at 4:30 which is about when I’ll get there? We agree to that.
I set off up the track, uphill, after taking off my cagoule. It gradually gets less steep and levels out but I didn’t find the trig point marked on the map! Reach Gare Gate, a fairly unremarkable meeting of paths – from here it is downhill to a road (to Sancton). I decide to slow down a bit since it is 4pm and there is only one (easy) mile to go. Path is slightly uphill to reach the road. Get to Hessleskew (pronounced Hezleskew?) which is more than one dwelling. Road drops into a dip (with path off to left – 2 walkers on it) then up again to main road (Beverley to York) at Arras (a farmhouse – there is a large sign – B&B).
It is 4:13 [so it was less than one mile]. I decide to rest my legs, sitting down on the verge and leaning on a sign to Sancton (which is only visible coming from York so Sue will not see it). Finish off the water [thirsty work today]. Wait 10 minutes, then Sue shows up and we head back to blighty.
Mum is asleep (in fact I wake her up just popping my head round the door). I drink a good deal of orange juice [see, it really was thirsty work] then have a shower and later a cup of tea. Mum puts in an appearance. Sue has a bath. Then Sue and I go to Beverley to fetch a curry and, of course, have a pint or two at the Tap and Spile – Brakspears! – same as ever – very nice. Sue can’t manage 2 pints but I do. Pick up meals and head back to CB. Eat. Bottle of white wine. Mum has Liebfraumilch. Mum and Sue leave most of their curry but I manage to eat all of mine except the so called garlic nan (really a hybrid vegetable nan – sweet. Richard had a meat calzone pizza (of course). Col rang in the middle of the meal and Sue had a conflab. [Col asked me via Sue how I was enjoying it – I said it was a bit hard.] Did the General Knowledge crossword in the Sunday Express whilst Sue watched telly and Mum read the paper. Saw the end of something, then Fawlty Towers (the Germans), then As Time Goes By (is it a new series or not?). Sue and Mum go to bed at 10pm [up early tomorrow to go on a little break to Norfolk] – I take half an aspirin [as prescribed], make a cup of tea, and go to bed. Read more Star Trek until 10:30 and then go out like a light!
Hear Sue pottering about at 7:30 – she makes a cup of tea and takes it back to bed – but she gets up at 8ish. Mum gets up. I get up at 8:30. Sue sets off to Beverley to do some errands (buy petrol for the journey and get a book on Amsterdam [can’t recall now why she needed this]). Mum goes off to clean her teeth. Both Mum and Sue have already packed their bags ready for the trip (to the Links Hotel West Bunton). I do my last minute preparations (I did some prep last night before going to bed) [I will not be returning to CB until Saturday so I am taking my massive rucksack!] and cart stuff downstairs. Pack car up (Sue has returned). Mum is ready. We set off for Arras [Mum and Sue will continue to Norfolk].
I think Sue has gone past Arras, but no – she turns right – we meet a couple of tractors coming the other way. I get out and say cheerio, see them off, and head for Millington [today’s destination] via Arras.
Follow way marks through farm to pick up a track across the fields. Grass is wet – it has been raining today – so my shoes get wet. I notice that my rucksack is lop-sided so I stop and adjust it (left strap needed shortening). After about a mile, my packed lunch falls out! (I made ham sandwiches with Dijon mustard this morning) so I re-adjust the packing of my sack (put packed lunch on top). I soon reach a stile and gate bearing a sign “Bull in field”. I can’t see any bulls – the field is empty. Reach the road on the other side of the field and then cross the old railway (now a footpath) which I have already walked on (I walked from Kiplingcotes Station to Goodmanham one weekend near Easter).
The road to Goodmanham goes uphill at first – slow – horse and rider pass me on the way up – say hi. Soon reach Goodmanham, turn right at the church and take a swig of water. The road continues and becomes a track metalled with hardcore – under a railway bridge [also disused, different line] and walk along a field boundary. (At this point I should mention that I got a blister yesterday on the junction of my left big toe/ball of foot. I popped it last night with a mapping pin and put a plaster on it, but had to pop it again this morning a put a new plaster on it. I can feel it now as I walk but I am ignoring it – What is pain?)
Reach a junction of paths – keep going – turn right on the coarse of a Roman road. Reach a picnic site mentioned in the book – it is spoiled by the presence of works for a massive pipeline that I have seen off to my right since Arras. According to Colin it is a chemical pipeline (ethylene?) stretching many miles across Yorkshire. I have to cross the pipeline after following it for a little while across a road. I am heading for Londesborough Park, a large estate. The entry to it is along a private road (car). Then I turn left near a group of horse chestnut trees and across a field full of sheep to the lake.
Cross a plank bridge (sleepers) and encounter a telescope (voluntary payment to the church – for birdwatchers?). Take a snap of the lake. It starts to rain so I put on my cagoule. Start eating an apple as I join a track past some horses, but manage to drop it half eaten. Meet alternative WW coming from Market Weighton. Pass brick pillars near the remains of the old hall. I am now on a metalled road that emerges in the village (of Londesborough). The WW has been re-routed (compared to my map) past the church, then turns right to meet the main road. Rain comes and goes but its not worth taking off my cag. Take a swig of water and set of down a minor road, which claims the book is rarely used (actually at least 1 car per minute). The road drops down a dip and up the other side; it stops raining. Reach Burnby road and see a double-decker bus.
Turn right up Burnby Road then left to Partridge Hall. Take cag off. Pass the hall and some fields to near a wood. Sign says ‘Teas’, being for the café in Millington (see later). Pass wood and reach a viewpoint. Take a snap looking towards Nunburnholme. It is 1pm. I decide to eat when I get to N. Downhill to village. Find a sort of overgrown bench to sit on and have lunch (after clearing away a few nettles). 1:13.
It is not far to Millington and it is still quite early. I had planned to stay in N a while and perhaps write some of the log up, but (wisely I think) I decide that this option is just too boring! But what about the café in Millington? Even if the pub isn’t open I can sit in there and write the log whilst having a cup of tea! So I decide I will not hang around in N but press on and get to Millington early.
Set off left up road (away from village) past church then around some field margins to another road. Left again then a right fork onto a track. Car parked at fork, drives off. Sign says Huggate 8 miles [I plan to get there for lunch tomorrow so it can only be about 3 miles to Millington today]. The track climbs quite steeply (10%?) (take it slow) through a wood then emerges into a field – no sign of Hessey Barn (demolished) – notice ‘Bull in field’ sign at the exit from the field! Get a bit lost at Wold Farm, but there is really only one way to go. Metalled road, then right at a house along field edge to a road.
Cross road and come to a spring/well that is fenced off then a plantation. Field edge (harvested wheat) to a gate then a track to a farm. Pass a tractor ploughing the field at close quarters (should have acknowledged the driver perhaps? I didn’t). (It is noticeable that I have not met any walkers today whereas I met quite a few at the weekend.). Through farm to a metalled road which heads downhill (seems to be a caravan site just here!) then back up again to a junction where the WW goes off to right. I go straight ahead towards Millington. Road is now downhill past cottages – cars pass – Beck cottage [low fighter plane goes over].
At this point I had thought that the road continued downhill to Millington but a closer inspection of the map reveals that the way is uphill, and fairly steeply at that. Slow. Pass waterworks. Soon levels out and reaches Millington. Man walking two dogs says hello. Couple of young girls. The Gate Inn (closed!) and then the café, aka the Rambler’s Rest Tea Rooms – also closed! It says on the door that it is open Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday in the week but that it closed at 2:30 today (it is now 3:30). Swines! I decide to sit at one of their tables outside and consume the remains of my lunch whilst waiting for the pub to open (the remains being a small carton of orange juice and a timeout).
A miracle happens! A woman appears from a house opposite the pub and walks towards me – she hails me ‘Hello. Are you staying at the pub?’ I can’t believe it, but manage to quickly say yes. It turns out she is not the owner or landlady but she has been given the keys and asked to look out for me. Very kind of her I think. We go round the back of the pub and she lets me in and shows me to the room. Bathroom downstairs opposite door and up a short flight of stairs to the rooms, mine at the end. The lady [I never did find out her name] gives me the keys and says cheerio.
I take off my shoes and socks and collapse onto the bed. Have a swig of water. Drink the orange juice. Make a cup of tea (after moving a chest of drawers to access an electric socket to plug the kettle into). Chill out. Have a shower. More tea. Find out that I have dropped a twenty pound note in the bathroom! Coffee. Fill kettle and water bottle. Watch kids TV for a bit (no news until 6pm BBC1). Tried the mobile phone (to phone Sue (and Mum) on her mobile) but no reception. So I venture out into the street to try to find a phone-box – but I don’t find one! (though if I’d bothered to look at the map I’d’ve seen that there was one at the north end of the village.
Watch news at 6pm and Look North at 6:30. Decide to go to the bar for a drink, but have to wait until 7pm for the pub to open. On the way I meet the landlady Christine (to whom I have spoken on the phone) and landlord George (who is in and out of the back door). I pace up and down the car park as I wait for the back door of the pub itself (a different door to the accommodation one) to open. George has a dog (Alsatian) in the back of his Land Rover – barks. It is just gone 7pm and starting to rain when George opens the door (I didn’t learn his name until later though).
I ask for a pint of Black Sheep (Old Mill is off) but George has to change the barrel and it is then rather too lively to settle. Five or six wasted pints later it still won’t settle so he gives up and I have a pint of Tetley’s. A couple of regulars come in and sit at the other side of the bar [which is a square in the middle of the pub] from me. They have John Smith’s. I decide to try it too. A couple of women and a dog arrive. I chat to George a bit then I ask for a menu. I plump for Garlic Bread and Sirloin Steak. Very nice. A couple come in called Harry and Nell. They have some snaps of the pub and the Morris Dancers taken on Yorkshire Day (August 1?). I have a look at them and chat to the charming couple as well as George. They are chuffed that I am doing the Wolds Way and we talk until they decide to leave an hour or so later. Harry buys me a pint. Apparently he makes furniture for a living and they live in Fangfoss (according to George).
I finish my meal and have another pint (Tetley’s – prefer it to John Smith’s). I start on the log (not before time) – and that is what I am doing now! On my 6th pint! (Better stop there.) Christine brought around two plates of sandwiches for the whole pub (don’t know why) – chicken & stuffing and egg (and later cheese and tomato). I decide to have breakfast at 9am (I’m in no rush) – should have a good night – see you tomorrow!
P.S. [Things I forgot to mention.] The pub gets a mention in the local (York) Camra magazine. Harry and Nell talked about the tramps that used to live under tarpaulins on the hillside round here – post war(s). I had two Timeouts and one of them melted in my shirt pocket.
Butterflies, slugs, snails, crickets, barley (smaller than wheat) – just a few things I should’ve mentioned [these are all things I’ve seen, or heard in the case of the crickets, and noted whilst walking the last 3 days]. Oh, and sunburn [my calves were stinging badly when I was having a shower yesterday afternoon].
It is 1:48 and I am sitting in the Wolds Inn in Huggate waiting for (it’s just arrived) a tuna mayonnaise sandwich and chips, sipping my second pint of shandy. Must’ve gotten here at 1:40ish. It has been a long morning considering it was only supposed to be 6 miles. It dragged a bit and there were some very steep climbs, notably Rabbit Warren.
I retired to my room last night at about 10:20 and put the telly on to watch a program about Steve Redgrave and the Coxless Four preparing for Sydney. I watched until 11:30, cleaned my teeth, had a cup of tea, took my tablets and went to bed – it was hot – I slept outside the duvet for the first half of the night. Woke a few times, but otherwise slept until 8:30 when the alarm went off (There was a lot of noise outside at 6am – I think they were collecting the bins). Had a cup of tea, got dressed, and watched TV until 9am when I went down for breakfast. (Note: as I write this I have found out that the Wolds Inn closes at 2pm so I will be leaving again soon!).
[Resume writing log later the same day at the Cross Keys in Fridaythorpe.]
Breakfast was grapefruit segments, cornflakes, full English (bacon, sausage, egg, mushrooms, tomatoes, beans, black pudding), toast, tea. Very nice. George is about tidying up a bit after last night. Chris is making pies (or something) in the kitchen. They don’t live in the pub but in Huggate (which they drive to and from via ‘the pastures’). There is a ‘night watchman’ (name of Nigel I learn later in Fridaythorpe) who stays the night. I did catch sight of someone in the bathroom last night. He obviously doesn’t have breakfast, or has it much earlier. I say cheerio to George and head to my room to get ready for off. Pack up. Don’t know what to do with my (wet) socks (should’ve got them dried last night perhaps), so I decide to stuff them in my rucksack but outside the bin liner [in which all my clothes are to keep dry]. Downstairs to the rear door of the kitchen. Pay Chris (£27, which includes £9 for my meal from last night) and sign the visitors book. Say cheerio. Look at my watch as I set off – it is bang on 10am!
My blister is giving me a lot of gyp (it was last night too – hobbling around the bar) but I reckon it will soon settle down once I get going. Limp off back the way I came [I have decided to go back to the point where the WW left my route yesterday near Warren Dale – it is after all a short day today]. See George in the Land Rover on his way back from a shopping trip (buying fish?) – wave – plod on.
Pass corner cottage, water works, Beck Cottage, Rose cottages. (Note that I also passed Bellerby’s Spring, which I forgot to mention yesterday. I heard the sound of running water [not common in these porous chalk hills apparently] and looked over the hedge to see water welling up out of the ground – and it was on the map!)
Soon rejoin WW and start a long plod uphill past a plantation on right (steep at first but levelling off later). The tall trees run out, and I wonder if I should be turning left [as the map says I should at the end of the wood]. But there are still some smaller trees, not none at all, there is no path to the left, no sign, and the main track carries on. I assume I go on, and this is proved correct when I eventually do turn left past a huge pile of manure. Along field boundaries to a path (also a field edge) running along the ridge parallel with the escarpment to the left. Take a snap at the viewpoint of Millington. Plod on.
Can’t see the views to the left due to a high hedge, but this opens up past Warren Farm. Another tractor, this time spraying spuds. A notice besides some rather dead looking spuds says that they have today been sprayed with sulphuric acid! Why? Carry on round the edge of the spud field (which has a wide margin of ploughed earth) and drop down into Sylvan Dale. I am now approaching Rabbit Warren [which is singled out in the book as being a steep climb]. I can see the steep bank ahead, which reminds me of the bank I had to climb last year when I was out walking near Goathland with Sue and Col [it nearly killed me!]. And this time I have 3 more miles to go (to Huggate) afterwards and a huge pack on my back! I note that there is an alternative and less steep path slanting up the bank to the right, and I wonder whether I should take it. Is it a right of way?
In the end I decide to do the steep climb. It is hard. I have to stop several times to get my breath. My thighs and calves can feel the effort. Finally get to the top (10 minutes? Less?) and ‘collapse’. Swig of water and a 5 minute rest. I soon recover and set off again [it was certainly much easier to do than the Goathland climb – I must be fitter]. I discover a bench 100 yards after the top [obviously its in the wrong place]. I note from the signs that the WW is joined by the Minster Way (actually joined at Warren Farm).
I am now walking along another field edge (wheat?) which rises only gently and I can keep up a reasonable pace. I hear a car on my left and, looking down, see a road and a double bend. Finding this on the map I discover that I should be down there near it! I have missed a turn off. Go back, not far and see a left (going north) fork. I suppose I was walking with my head down as usual.
Take the fork and descend into Nettle Dale. There is another steep bank ahead! But this time the climb is very short and the path turns right to rise only gently. I still take a swig of water though as a ‘reward’ for doing the climb. (On second thoughts I didn’t have a swig then but much later because I hadn’t reached the top of the climb.)
Jessop’s Plantation seems bigger and a lot less treed than it is on the map. I think this must mean that I am beginning to wish distances were less, i.e. I am getting tired. At the end of JP, and the start of Huggate Sheepwalk, I DO take a swig of water. Then I follow a sheep trail (no obvious human trail) along a fence to my right. Views of Pasture Dale and the road to my left (I assume this must be the ‘pastures’ referred to by Chris in Millington). Trees in the distance mark where the road is, again they seem too far away, but in fact I get there rather quickly. Road. Junction. Another field boundary. This takes me to the highest point on the WW (206 meters, 670 feet). The book maintains that there are grand views from up here on a fine day – well its sunny today (as forecast) but I can see bugger all! Some distant stuff but nothing that looks like Lincoln Cathedral!
Cross road to a ‘path’ which is actually a metalled lane to Glebe Farm. Take a snap from a viewpoint in the direction of Huggate. Keep to metalled lane through Glebe Farm even though I do pass a sign saying ‘No public right of way’ (mysteriously – did I have a mental block?). I find myself in the middle of the farm with dogs barking narby and with the distinct feeling I shouldn’t be there. I notice a lady hanging out her clothes and ask her ‘Am I going the right way?’ ‘Yes,’ she says ‘but the path doesn’t come through here it is over there.’ And she indicates behind her. ‘Oh dear. I’m sorry,’ I manage to offer ‘Can I rejoin it this way?’ ‘Yes.’ What a pillock I am. I don’t remember seeing any sign before the farm pointing another way, but as I have proved once today already, I am not very observant. Anyway, I soon rejoin the WW proper down a metalled lane towards Huggate.
Reach a road (1:25) and turn right for the village (WW goes left here). Uphill again. I am quite tired [I think Rabbit Warren took more out of me than I supposed at the time]. Go slowly past a church, woman and daughter and 4WD, footpath to right, crescent of houses, T junction, turn left to Wolds Inn. ‘If this pub isn’t open I will be seriously pissed off!’ I think to myself…but [as you already know] it is open and I gratefully sink a pint of shandy and order some food [see above]. The time is 1:40 and the pub closes at 2pm – good timing! Write up a bit of the log before getting food, and a bit after, but despite getting a drink AT, I am the only one left in the pub and they want to close up. Toilet. Pack up. Ask landlord if he will fill my water bottle. Chat to him a bit. The Wolds Inn is mainly a food place (75/25) – you can’t make money these days just selling beer. I tell him I’m off to Fridaythorpe today – 3 miles (actually its more like 2.5 miles) – note that it was trying to rain when I was in the pub but it is OK now – set off.
Once again my blister plays up at first and I limp rather back the way I arrived through Huggate to the WW. I’m in no hurry [I wish I could have stayed in the pub another half hour at least] so I keep to a slow pace as the way climbs a hill North of the village. Pass Cow Dale. See tractor again ploughing a huge field – it disappears over the hill (I see the other end of the field later above Horse Dale). Still going slow. I will arrive very early as it is. Can see a group of trees to right hiding Northfield Farm.
Reach Horse Dale. Take a picture. Take a leak [3 pints shandy]. Descend into the dale and note the ancient earthworks and plenty of sheep. Reach the end of Holm Dale and begin slowly to ascend it. There are no landmarks [rather like Swin Dale earlier] so the only way I can guage my progress is by the topography i.e. the direction I am walking in. First it curves to the left – then to the right. But progress is …just…so…slow! I am really plodding. I am wondering what the dale head is like – steep? It turns out to be a fairly moderate slope up to a junction of footpaths and tracks. Just a quarter of a mile to go to Fridaythorpe.
Tack a track. Pass an old JCB. I can hear a busy road (A166) in the distance. Get to it. Soon reach the pub [The Cross Keys] on the right – I can see the other pub (Manor House Inn - expensive) dead ahead. I walk around the pub looking for the tradesman’s entrance – but I can’t find one. I take off my pack, leaving it in the ‘garden’ (2 tables) at the rear of the pub and decide to wander some more. I am just plucking up courage to hammer on the side door when someone says hello. It is the landlord – he is behind me in the garden. I tell him who I am (he is expecting me but not so soon) and he invites me in.
The landlord (Keith) shows me up the stairs to my room [this part of the pub is like an ordinary house] – it is his daughter’s room but she is away in London. I take off my shoes – Keith asks me if I’d like some tea so I ask for a pot. It arrives shortly and (later) a menu for dinner. In fact, they only do food Thursday to Sunday when his ‘woman’ Jenny is there (its Tuesday) but as I am a guest he will make a special for me. I will have to have it at 6:30 before the pub opens – Keith has to make some sandwiches for the pool match tonight so he disappears. I relax and drink some tea. No probs. I decide I will have gammon. More tea.
Down to the kitchen to see Keith and order my meal. We chat a bit whilst he gets out a huge joint of beef and cuts it up for sarnies. [Remember many different coloured plastic chopping boards.] Keith knows what the derivation of the name Weighton is (as in Market Weighton) and also Fridaythorpe – mentioned in the Domesday Book. I tell him I’m limping because I have a blister. Decide to go up and have a bath. Kepp th water luke warm because of my sunburned calves! Then I start on the log (see above). I keep up the log until it is time for dinner at 6:30.
Downstairs Keith is waiting, ‘Ready when you are!’ he says. I look at some strange cartoons whilst waiting for dinner (‘Dot always gives her children a choice – fish fingers or unimaginable violence.’) Dinner arrives. I suggest a bottle of wine and Keith fetches me a bottle of Belle Amise [never heard of it] the house red – quite good. Stuff myself with food while Keith busies himself before opening the pub. He stacks paper plates and napkins ready for the pool match. As we chat he says he is curious about the name ‘Scantlebury’ – it turns out he is interested [in a professional way] in names and arms. He explains that The Cross Keys is the arms of St. Peter, the patron saint of York Minster, which is whay there are so many Cross Keys around (the pub in Thixendale is also called the Cross Keys). Obviously he knows all the technical names for heraldic devices. He works (part time i.e. when not running the pub) in heraldry and genealogy. His own pub arms (which I suspect he invented himself) are a mixture of the St. Peters arms and St Edmund Hall which was his college at Oxford! I tell him I went to Merton. He knows the college arms.
After this revelation we get on famously and talk about all manner of things, but mainly about what ‘Scantlebury’ might mean. He did Physics and Maths but should have been a linguist. He is very interested in languages. He speaks French, German and Spanish and had to do Latin and Greek at school (he hated it). He was planning to go to Spain to teach English, but is wife backed down so he bought the pub instead (4 years ago), and then his wife left him! Now he is with Jenny. He has a son and daughter. He left school 40 years ago (so he is probably 58?) He sells Black Sheep and likes a drop himself.
I order breakfast at 9am again (which is what Keith suggested anyway). I hope it is easier walking tomorrow – no more Rabbit Warrens! We chat some more (Keith has now opened the pub at 7pm). I go into the Lounge Bar (not open to the public) and have a pint. Someone called Ron comes in followed by some women wanting food (Keith had to disappoint them). I go upstairs to get the log and resume my writing (don’t know at what point!). Visit toilets (after asking Keith to unlock them – I told you the Lounge bar was closed) – note that there is now W.C. just a urinal! Keith later has to go down to the cellar which is via a large hatchway behind the bar – scary. Have a second pint. (By the way I finished off the bottle of red with the meal.) Keep logging until now!
Now I am in the Middleton Arms in North Grimston and it is 10:27 at night! I have spent the evening talking to some fellow walkers I met here. Now there is an hour or so to write up the log. (My friends have gone to bed.) Last night after completing the log I decided to leave the lounge and go into the bar – didn’t want to be on my own all night. I stood at the bar for a while and then went to get a book to read (Ethics) but thought better of it. I sat watching the developing pool match (they had to have a different referee for each game). I noticed that a couple of chaps (one Irish) had started to play a game of chess in one corner of the room so I went over to watch them play.
The Irish man was losing on pieces and by this time on position too – he finally resigned and he suggested that I have a game with the victor. I said OK, just a quick one. I had an enjoyable game, but I lost the queen early on and eventually the game. There was a chap leaning on the bar who came over to have a look half way through the game. He seemed to think that my opponent could checkmate me quite easily, but he had failed to notice that I would have just taken the attacking queen with my king. I subsequently learned that this chap (about 50 with a beard) was called Paddy and was the landlord of the Cross Keys Thixendale.
I went back to drinking (my chess opponent said he had to go) and chatting to Keith and watching the pool. The pool player gang asked Keith to put the telly on at 11pm so that they could watch Big Brother. He did, even though (he said) it was rubbish. I decided it was time to go to bed. I think I’d had 6 pints – I was hoping I wouldn’t have a hangover!
I slept well considering the noise from the A166 (not so bad at night). I heard Keith pottering about at 12ish. (He later said he stayed up until 1am).
I had set my alarm for 8:45 but Keith woke me at 8:30 with a cry ‘Breakfast at nine!’ Got up a took a dump (took another 1 hour later! Beer!) Down to breakfast at 9am after a short idle spell (didn’t want to be cheeky and get there early). Tuck into orange juice and Alpen, followed by a huge plate of fried food (2 sausage, 4 bacon, large black pudding, tomatoes, beans, mushrooms and egg) washed down with tea. I could only manage one round of toast – too full! Keith has a cooked breakfast too – he only has one if he’s had to make one for a guest. I bring up the subject of a packed lunch, ‘I wish you’d asked me earlier!’ he says. But he makes me a packed lunch anyway.
I go upstairs to pack and take dump number two. My packed lunch is waiting for me in the bedroom. Pack up, downstairs, pay Keith (£40 minus £5 paid in advance by way of a deposit – includes all my drinks from last night!) We exchange pleasantries as Keith shows me out via the side door of the pub. Shake hands. Set off. 10:06.
First stop is the filling station shop just up the main road to see if they have any postcards. They don’t, but the man says they sell them in Thixendale. Back to Manor House Inn (£35 a night room only) and keep left (right from the direction I’m going in now). Soon come across the notice marking the approximate halfway point of the WW. Take a snap. Pass woman walking a dog. Take track to left past a sign that has been broken off and hastily stuck into a green net fence. Cross field. Drop down into West Dale where I see a flock of sheep herded into a pen to the left. Man (farmer?) travelling along the valley bottom on a four wheeled bike. I reach the dale bottom and find a little sign that says the path has been diverted – ‘please follow the way marks’. Go north 100 meters to take an alternative valley to the mapped one – quite a tiring climb (its early in the morning!) to pick up a track (not on map) which I follow passing to the north of Gill’s Farm and emerging on a metalled road opposite the (original) WW. I decide this is the top of the hill so I take a swig and a leak.
Head downhill into Thixen Dale, gently at first then steeply. See a couple walking south in the dale bottom. I reach the bottom and turn sharp right (north) to walk along the beautiful sheep filled Thixen Dale. Cross a fence and find a crop of wheat growing to left. Road. Turn right. Another crop to the right (harvested). I can see the village ahead of me so I take a snap. As I near the village I see a figure in a bright red top – it is a man walking his dog – he goes into the harvested field. I can’t quite tell if he hails me or I just imagined it, so I don’t hail him so I hope not!
I reach the village and turn up a lane to the right which seems to be the way to the pub – it is. It is 11:52 and the pub doesn’t open until 12 so I decide to sit opposite and wait. I knew I was going to be early even an hour ago and had slowed down so as not to get there before 12 – but not enough. The man in the red jacket appears 9with his dog) and turns out to be the landlord Paddy! Say howdy. He goes into the pub and opens up. Go in. Drink 2 pints of shandy and chat for half an hour. I tell him I am staying at North Grimston (1.5 miles off the WW) and am not looking forward to plodding up the main road to get there. He gets out his 2.5 inch map to see if there is a path – but no – only the old railway which is not a right of way beyond Wharram le Street. I notice there are lots of sporting cups (darts and quizzes) and also City & Guilds certificates.
I say cheerio to Paddy and head off to find a shop to get some postcards. Find a shop-cum-petrol station which has (only 3) postcards that are drawings of the village. Up the road I find the old Post Office that sells 5 proper postcards (photograph). I chatted briefly to both lady owners. Took snap of the village hall/youth hostel. Set off up the steep path out of Thixendale. It is 12:50. Take it slowly again. There is a silly bit of footpath just to avoid Cow Wold Barn. Take a swig at the top of the climb. Reach a fence (stile) and a large broken sign ‘No right of way along track use footpath over stile’. Downhill to Back Dale then up a ‘spur’ dale to an earthwork – quite steep – take another swig and a leak (shandy). At the end of the earthwork is a right turn followed by a long (2km) but level stretch along the hedge of a massive field. The field to the left is the head of the incipient Deep Dale. Tractor. Take a snap of the prairie like field (wheat). Pass plantation and footpath on right (1km).
Eventually reach the end of the long stretch at a field corner. WW goes on ahead but I am diverting onto a path to the left to Wharram Percy [this is now the WW proper I think]. Follow a sheep trail along the top of the (now quite deep) Deep Dale proper and then drop into it. The path comes out by a mill pond and the remains of the church at Wharram Percy. I had thought the place would be deserted but there are people here (tourists). Families and couples. It is now 2:38 (later than planned) and about time I had some lunch. Go past church and farmhouse (took snap) and reach a large tree which I decide to sit under and have my packed lunch. Beef sarn, ham sarn, quiche, cake, penguin, orange crisps. Eat too much and leave crisps and half orange. Set off again at 3:10 – I plan to get to Middleton Arms by 5pm. Rather than climb the hill back to the WW I will take the track of the old railway to the old station and then a short road to the (modern) village of Wharram le Street.
As I reach the old railway I expect to see a tunnel entrance on my right but there is just a bridge in the trees. Soon reach Station Road which is uphill to village (quite steep, then level). Reach WW again at a house on right and see a couple of walkers (male) ahead of me [the first weekday walkers I’ve seen and actually heading in the same direction as me!]. They walk faster than me (not difficult) so I do not catch them up. Obviously they have caught me up and passed me whilst I made the detour to Wharram Percy. When I reach the crossroads in Wharram le Street one of the chaps (the tall one, six foot six) is sat on the grass. We greet each other and have a short chat. They are going to North Grimston too, but are waiting for the Post Bus which is due at 4:30 (it is now 3:51). His mate is filling his water bottle (or something) at a ladies house across the road. I decide that I will carry on on foot. The Post Bus might be late or not arrive or not go (directly) to North Grimston, and I can be there by 4:30. I say to him ‘let me know how you get on,’ and set off at quite a pace (for me) up the busy main road (Beverley to Malton).
I have decided it is now a race between me and the two chaps! Soon pass where WW leaves the road on a track to the right. Plod on uphill following the slight bends in the road to locate myself. Following the map the rod bends sharply left then descends a steep hill – then it goes off the map altogether! Heavy lorries coming both ways and no pavements – scary! Soon reach junction on right [which I will take tomorrow] and then another steep down hill with a double bend. I have now reached North Grimston and I can see the pub, which is the first building on the right. I go round the back of the pub and meet an old black dog and a snappy ‘Jack Russell’ type dog. There is also a woman sat having a cup of tea. I introduce myself and tell het that there are two more walkers behind me. This confuses her until I point out that I have only just met them! She decides to switch the rooms about [giving me the double bed rather than the other two!]. It is 4:36.
I am taken up to my room (number 1) where I collapse. After a while I take off my sweaty shirt, and my shoes and socks, and make a cup of tea. At first I can’t get the kettle to work, but when I complain about this to the woman she demonstrates that it is just a loose connection. Felt a bit stupid. Drink tea. Watch telly (briefly). Have a bath. The sunburn on my legs is even worse now, but it occurs to me that I do have some sun cream in my bag, which I must apply tomorrow. Dress. Note that radio alarm has come on whilst I was in the bath. It is set for 5:30. I hope it won’t come on in the night! Watch more telly (news) and do postcards until 7pm.
Down to pub for dinner. Have a pint of Tetleys and chat to the two lads who turn out to be from Scotland. (Forgot to mention that as I was having my cup of tea, they had banged on the door, but the woman was hiding somewhere so I went on down to see if I could help. The woman appeared and let them in the front door closely followed by a middle-aged but very fit couple. The man has a beard and they have just come from Millington as have the Scottish lads!)
[As I write it is the next day and I am in my room] I pick food for dinner (garlic mushrooms followed by scampi and chips) and have a second pint. Dinner is ready. I eat at the same table as the Scottish lads and we chat through the meal. I have cheese and biscuits for afters. After dinner the lads go off to their room and I go to the bar and have another pint. I meet the middle-aged couple, who are also having a pint (he is on Guinness), and chat to them. I decide it is time I did the log so I go to my room and fetch it but I don’t start writing for a while as I am still chatting to the couple (never did find out their names!). They seem to think there is a path back to the WW (they have a 1:50,000 map of the area). But I think as I am off my map I will just go back up the road and turn left as planned. The Scottish lads are going to get up early and catch the Post Bus back to Wharram le Street at 8:20! I wonder if I will get up early and see them off?
From chatting to the couple I discover that there is a National Trails Guide (Stilwell). Also they know where I got lost yesterday near Glebe Farm (remember the woman hanging out her washing!) and they say the sign directing you along the WW was obscured. The couple go to bed at 10:30 leaving me to my log until 11:20 when the bar closes. I continue logging in my room but get tired and go to bed. Set alarm for 8am.
Woke a few times in the night (toilet once – beer) and notice that my left ear is getting blocked with wax. My right ear is slightly blocked already after getting bathwater in it at Fridaythorpe. Woke at 7:30 and find my left ear really is blocked now. Oh dear. I regret not having brought some hairgrips with me (which I use to clear out the wax [not that I advise anyone else to do this of course]). Luckily the alarm goes off at 8 and my ear clears. Phew! Up. Ablute. Dress. Make tea.
Go down at 8:18 to see the lads off and maybe post my cards. But they have left already and as I look out of the window I see the Post Bus go past (incidentally I saw it pass me on the road yesterday going in the opposite direction). Missed ‘em! Go back to my room and finish off log, which is where I am now.
[5:47, the same day] I am now sat in the Dawnay Arms, West Heslerton having a pint and waiting for 6:30 when they start serving food.
I have missed out some things that have happened along the way: I can hear the wheat ‘cracking’ very quietly in the sun; there has been the sound of aircraft larking about in the distance for several days now but I never see anything; I did see an old RAF plane and two noisy fighter planes – one at Millington (Beck Cottage) and one today; walking along the slope is very hard (e.g. just after Millington) [this is because the downhill foot has further to go than the uphill foot]; there is barley as well as wheat – it is smaller, the heads fall over and they have ‘whiskers’; since Wharram Percy there have been signs for the Centenary Way; the couple in North Grimston talked about somebody they knew who did the Coast to Coast walk in 17 days via a package – a couple of minibuses traverse the entire route picking up bags and dropping them off at your destination so you don’t have to carry anything, except a cagoule and some water.
After finishing the log this morning I went down to breakfast. 8:45 The couple appeared shortly after me. Had mini-weetabix, orange juice and full breakfast (pig!). Chatted a bit. They are going to East Heslerton today – the Snooty Fox. They had already changed into their walking clothes [aiming for a quick getaway]. 9:22. Go up and change myself and pack up. Back down to pay. The couple leave just ahead of me – say cheerio – might see you later (?).
Pay by debit card £42. Collect packed lunch (ordered night before) and stow it in the top of my rucksack with my cagoule (note!). Ask where post box is – it is in the village round the bend in the house that used to be the Post Office! Say cheerio and set off to post postcards [which takes me 200 yards in the wrong direction]. About turn to set off back the way I came yesterday up the main road to rejoin the WW.
As before there are heavy lorries and plenty of cars so it is a bit dangerous. Through double bends and up the hill to the left turn [the side road is much quieter]. It is level for a while then another uphill (Cowcliff Hill), 1 in 9 (the one on the main road was 14%). Soon reach WW as it crosses road from right to left.
After gaining all this height I now lose it by descending the hill across fields. Reach point where path is very vague down a steep bit to a beck (stile) and then a short steep climb to a farm track. This is level to the farm (Wood House). Here someone is burning straw by piling up huge bails/cylinders of it using one of those forklifts that goes beep-beep. The smoke is a minor irritation. Follow farm track to a wood where the path diverts round the edge of the wood (a bit silly) then back to farm track along the edge of a plantation. This is uphill but not noticeably. Reach a farm (High Bellmanear) where a ‘drot’ type tracked vehicle is ‘bulldozing’ road stone. The track is the level up to a road (Settrington Beacon). Take a snap of the view to the west.
Through a wood. Turn right into a bit that again feels like being indoors. Then sharp left and past some trees that have fallen across the path and one has to duck under the branches – scrape rucksack (the significance of which becomes clear later!). Emerge from the trees to a glorious view from the northern edge of the Wolds across the Vale of Pickering to the North York Moors. Take 2 snaps in a sort of panorama with a tree in the middle. Descend a grassy slope to a meeting of ways. This place is marked as point F on the map, but the metalled lane referred to is actually 200 yards north of here. This confuses me for a bit, but I trust the WW signs and carry on (until I do reach the metalled road!). The road is over a kilometre long, reaching a reservoir on the right (a sort of low Nissan hut). The WW turns right here, but I consider whether I should take the bridleway to the left, which might (it goes off the map) take me to Rillington and a pub. I decide it is too far off the way – no pub lunch today.
Along field edge, across fields, bridge, pond project and ford. I emerge in the village of Wintringham to find the couple from North Grimston sat on a bench! I join them to have my lunch (they shuffle up). Retrieve packed lunch from the top of my rucksack (not noticing anything wrong!) and chat whilst I eat it. Eventually, the couple [who had muesli bars for lunch I think] decide they will set off [they don’t want to wait for me, I assume because I will cramp their style – too slow]. Say cheerio and watch them take the old route (as on the map), turning right along the main road through the village. At this point I turn to my rucksack to stow the lunch remnants and discover that I have lost my cagoule! Bugger! I must’ve lost it when I scraped under that branch. Woe is me. It cost £65 too.
I set off, but I am inconsolable for a time. I follow the new route i.e. the signposts (not the map), which instruct me to turn left to pick up a bridleway that passes to the north of the village. I get as far as Thorndale Farm and ask myself how I came to get my lunch out of the rucksack without noticing that my cag was missing. I convince myself that the cag must’ve been there and it fell out and maybe blew away. I decide to go back to the bench and search thoroughly for it, which I do. But it turns out to be wishful thinking! The cag must’ve always been gone and I stupidly didn’t notice when I got my lunch out.
I decide now to follow the couple, rather than to retrace my steps , and go through the village. It will be more interesting. There is no PO (marked on map) or shop. There are impressive gates to Place Newton. Rejoin WW proper near church and start slightly uphill to join track through [another] Deep Dale Plantation which is level. However, I can se from the map that [another] very steep section is coming up. I soon get there and look up it – it’s just as bad as Rabbit Warren – Oh dear! My heart sinks. But there is nothing for it but to plod on up. Very slow pace. Breathing heavy by half way. Have to rest at 2/3. top never seems to get nearer for ages. Eventually, though, I do make it to the top, emerging on another track through the woods. Stop for a breather and a swig of water, but only a couple of minutes, then off along an earthwork to a sharp right turn at point G [which is the point where the predominantly north to south WW begins to do west to east].
Up track towards West Farm. Easy uphill. Reach a sign – a yellow arrow pointing left – not a WW sign. What shall I do? Is the farmer trying to get you to avoid his farm [WW or not]? I assume he is [which turns out to be a mistake] and head off left, and later right across a completely open field. No Path. No more signs! I realise my error but what should I do now? I decide to try to reach the path to the north of me (which skirts the south of a plantation), but there is a fence – too difficult to climb. I have to barge through a hay field to avoid the fence, and manage to fall over. Decide to brave climbing the fence – sidle over it (ouch) and then along an unused path (very overgrown) to right. Scratch legs on brambles. But soon get back to WW again, thank goodness. Easy walking now. Go down a dip then walk between a field and another plantation. Soon reach the road that will take me to West Heslerton.
The path refuses to descend onto the road but turns right (wrong direction) and crosses the road 100 yards to the south. I was hoping to get to West Heslerton by 3pm and get a pint in (which is what I said to the couple in Wintringham) – but there is no chance now [too many delays]. Set off down the road to north – quite steep – some traffic. I soon reach the village and discover my next problem – how am I going to find the Old Rectory where I am booked in for B&B? Perhaps it is near the church – look around in the vicinity of the church (which I reach early) – zilch! Is it near Rectory Close (a new development) – zilch! Eventually find the pub (Dawnay Arms) which seems to have been closed all afternoon anyway – it opens at 5:30 – will I have to wait until then to ask someone in the pub?
I sit at a bench outside the pub and wonder what to do next. Say hello to a young boy playing nearby. I could try the Post Office if I knew where it was. Or I could just wander about until I chanced upon the place. Then across the road from the pub I see a white sign – I approach it hoping it says ‘The Old Rectory B&B’ – and it does! It points along a lane, which I take to find a big old house on a rise up a drive on the right. I walk up to the door and ring the bell. A man answers (Brian). I tell him I’m booked in, he lets me in, it is 3:15.
Brian shows me to my room. It is a very large posh house and I am in the Bishop’s Suite (golly). Brian’s wife (didn’t catch her name) appears and shows me around the room and the en suite. I am quite warm so rather than a cup of tea I order a glass of coke. I take off my shoes and my sweaty top (I wore a T-shirt today rather than the usual colourful shirt) and collapse on the bed. My drink arrives. I tell the lady that I have lost my cag, and she says why not let Brian drive me round to where I think I lost it and have a look for it? Alternatively there is a bus in the morning to Malton – I could go and buy a new one. She calls Brian who comes to look at my map of Settrington Beacon (the nearest bit of road to where I think I might have lost the cag). I tell them I will think about it.
Drink coke with a piece of shortbread and some cake (very nice) – then I drink some water too – thirsty – I think I should’ve had some tea! Later I have a shower and change. Then I read the WW book for the next day (‘Tomo and tomo and tomo creeps on this petty pace.’) It is 5:15. I decide to ring Sue [who will be back from her short trip] from the phone box and then go to the pub (open 5:30). I take the tray downstairs where I meet Brian. I tell him I have decided to go to Malton tomorrow and buy a new cag. ‘Needle in a haystack?’ he says [referring to me trying to locate the lost cag I think]. The door will be open until midnight! (I have the key anyway.)
I make my way down the drive and road to the phone box, which is just outside the pub. Phone Sue. Sue phones back. Talk to Sue and to Mum. Pub opens. I go in. Order a pint (Tetley’s). Then another. Start log (see time above). I ask for a menu, which starts a conversation with the landlord (behind the bar) and landlady (sat at the bar). I tell them I have lost my cagoule. The landlady says she used to be a scout leader and has a few spare cags in the back! I can’t believe my luck. She goes back to check and comes back with a likely cagoule. Unfortunately it is only large not extra large. Pity. I wonder if I will take it anyway or go to Malton tomorrow. The landlady finds out the times of the buses and also gives me directions to the shops in Malton. Then she says ‘Why not just take the risk and hope it doesn’t rain?’ ‘Because of Sod’s Law!’ I say. Then I decide to try on the large cagoule – it might just do. She fetches the cags and I try the large one on. It is a bit snug! But I think it is good enough – I will take it. The landlady refuses payment, so I get it for free!
I order some food and in a short time it arrives. Fillet of Trout followed by Fillet of Pork. Very nice. Bill comes to £19.10 including drinks. Chat to L & L between courses (I eat in the dining room). Then I have another pint and finish the log – which is where I am now at 8:19. I am very lucky to have gotten a new cag. (The landlady, called Mandy I think, said she always hated walking with the scouts! Boring. But she liked the camping and canoeing!)
I am sitting in the Ganton Greyhound Inn (Hotel) waiting for a cheese and onion sandwich to arrive (it just has). I have now finished it together with my first pint of shandy. Wasps. (One fell in my drink.)
Last night after finishing the log I had a final pint (left pub just after 9pm). Drinking ‘with’ me were Mandy, ‘Frank’ (who was an old chap who had a ham sandwich), and a young chap (who also had eats, smoked B&H, and played the fruit machine). Two women came in, one rather stout who drank stout (Guinness, a pint), the other average size (Guinness, a half). The landlord mentioned 2 tornadoes flying very low over the village Thursday. I leave for the Old Rectory – say cheerio (and thanks again for the cag).
Outside the pub I find the Post Office not far from the pub (opposite village hall with a post box in the wall). I will need to visit it tomorrow to buy some more writing paper since there are two days to go (25%) and only 9 pages left (9%) of my little notebook. Back at the Old Rectory I meet Brian who has very thoughtfully made me out a little map of how to get to the shops in Malton together with bus times! I have to tell him I will not be going, now that I have begged a cagoule from the pub! Apparently I would’ve had to have breakfast at 7:30 to get the 8:10 bus! Decide to order breakfast for 8:30 [early start Friday as it is quite a long way].
Back in my room I discover that there actually are tea-making facilities, in the wardrobe! I can’t get the telly to come on so I call for Brian who points me to a button on the side of the set! Dummy! I watch Tarrant on TV and a bit of Newsnight whilst drinking a cup of tea and a cup of coffee. In bed by 11pm. Sleep well, though I do have to get out in the night, and I did wake a couple of times, but went straight off again. Alarm set for 8 but I beat it and watch news over a cup of tea, wash, dress, toilet (the first time). Down to breakfast at 8:30, which is laid out in the Dining Room, also containing a baby grand piano.
Orange juice, Cheerios, full English, toast, tea. Chat a little to the lady of the house, fill in the register and the visitor’s book. Rise at 9:03. Upstairs to pack – put on plenty of sun cream (Brian says it will be another fine day) – double check I have securely packed my new cag! (same place) Down to hall to pay £20 B&B very good value. Brian says he will give me a lift to the top of the hill! Bliss! We stop off at the Post Office, where Brian gets a paper (Mail) and I buy an ordinary letter-writing pad (ruled – they didn’t have any notebooks) [the smallest Post Office I’ve ever seen – room for 4 inside only).
Up the hill to WW. Say cheerio and thanks. Set off for Ganton for lunch. Brian says there is a view of the village to the left on WW but all I can see is trees! Take a snap of the Vale of Pickering anyway. Plod on. More field edges. View of East Heslerton. Small diversion at Manor Wold Farm (from where the couple from yesterday will have taken a farm track down into East Heslerton. Another diversion at the ‘byway’ on East Heslerton Brow. Take a leak in the dip/earthworks. Then it’s a bit of a climb to the road. Have a swig of water. Down the metalled road (which is the way marked in the book) towards Sherburn. Reach WW signs, one pointing down the road the other backwards along a path on the right (not up the road I’ve just come down). I wonder if its another bit of diverted WW? Follow the path backwards for 100 yards but it seems to just go back the way I’ve come – perhaps I missed a turn off somewhere back there? I return to the road and continue downhill. Turn right and then right again at High Mill Farm. It is 11:31. ETA Ganton 1pm. (sign says 3 miles).
Along road which heads up Sked Dale, but turn off to left up a steepish hill. Sign points left along path along field edge. (Forgot to mention that the path earlier today was another one parallel to the hillside – very difficult walking that can lead to niggles developing (joints).) Seems to take ages to get to a wood where the path turns right up a steepish hill (no swig just a breather) then left into wood for a few minutes, then down hill again. See a lot of those little red flowers that Dad always used to point out to us (when they are open it is a fine day), and also some similar ones in blue, and some in purple! Along this stretch I nearly sprain my ankle (I have done this more than once this week). Turn right towards Manor Farm.
Pass a piggery. Hundreds of tin sheds to house the pigs all in separate pens. Notice a boar trying to get his oats, and a sow with many piglets feeding. The ground here is sand not chalk [I am walking along the bottom of the Wolds escarpment to my right]. Pass the twin dwellings of Manor Farm and Dawnay Lodge. Take a swig (last before the pub). Set off down a track past a beck (gurgles) and a small plantation to a road. Turn left towards Ganton. WW goes right but I press straight on to the main road (A64) and the pub. Soon see it across the very busy road, which I have to cross (with care!), to reach pub at 1pm. It is quite posh. Extra buildings for accommodation (hence ‘Hotel’). There is even one of those brown signs to ‘Greyhound Inn’.
I go in and order food and drink and sit in the garden just outside the large conservatory (there is a small one too). Fill in the log. Twix. I’ve just noticed that I’ve numbered the pages of the log wrong – two page 36’s – so there will only be a page 99 (no page 100).
(19:22) I am now in the Mayfield Hotel in Seamer (near Flixton) having been given a lift here by ‘Ken’ a friend of the people I’m staying with in Flixton. Apparently there are pubs in Flixton, but the food in them is a bit dodgy I’m told so they like to bring people here. I have ordered chicken livers and duck for dinner (£12.95). Black Sheep bitter.
I left the pub at lunchtime just after 2pm and set off to rejoin the WW. Along the busy A64 and turn right. The village is quite pretty (take a snap). I pick up WW near the church (scaffolding) and set off across fields. Combine harvester in fields to right and a bailer in fields to left ‘laying’ (it seems) bails of straw (cylinders).
(Some things I’ve missed out of the log: A common sight is partridges running away ahead of me. This happened in Thixendale, where there was a whole ‘gaggle’ of them (what is the collective term for a group of partridges?). Also there has been the odd grouse taking wing ahead of me at the sound of my approach. I heard some shooting toady which might have been a bird scarer. I definitely heard a bird scarer on day 2 near the head of Swin Dale. More tornadoes flew over in different directions when I was in Ganton village.)
There is a steep climb ahead that I’m not looking forward to. Turn right in fields and start gentle ascent (at first!), then a bit steeper, but befor I get to the really steep bit there is a diversion to the left. This meets a farm track, turn right, then its steeper again, up through a tree lined lane past cows, which run away, and into a field of cows near Binnington Brow. Electric fence and a gate that I can’t open (climb over – not the electric bit, but a wooden bit to right of gate). Now back on old WW as per the book. Reach a road where there are signs to the RAF station (Staxton Wold – obviously as its military its not marked on the map), which is across the road and down a long metalled lane (over 1km).
Reach the base. Lots of high fencing and barbed wire. Low buildings. Signs warning you off. Geodesic dome (radar?). Turn right a T junction and pass the base, road still metalled. Two women are coming up the hill towards me. [At this point the old notebook runs out and I use the new writing pad.] As they get near I assume they are mother and daughter, and the daughter is absolutely stunning! Sigh! The younger one greets me and says they have just come from Filey (it is 3:20 so that’s not bad going, but they will be late getting to Sherburn – a 17.25 mile day). She points out that there is a badly signposted bit (the V shaped detour around Folkton Wold), which is where they got lost and lost some time. I will be careful. ‘Where have you come from?’ she asks. ‘Ganton. No. I had lunch in Ganton. I’ve come from West Heslerton.’ I am (understandably) tongue-tied. ‘What’s that like?’ she says. ‘Good. Level all the way’ (I think she meant ‘How well signposted is it?’!) Say cheerio. [Why don’t I meet such beautiful women in real life?]
The metalled road develops a grassy strip up the middle and enters a valley. Suddenly turn sharp left (point B) and have to climb another really steep bit, though it is mercifully quite short. Have a swig at the top. Plod on through fields, right then left, down a dale and up another short steep bit (on a slant this time – difficult walking). Another dip, then level for a time before dropping into Lang Dale and up the other side (steepish) to a main road. Have another swig at the top and sit on the verge at the entrance to Folkton Wold Farm. I wait a few minutes to get my breath and then I get out the mobile phone and ring Flixton. [I have previously arranged with the lady I will be staying with for her to pick me up!] The lady (Mrs Wheeler) answers and tries to find out exactly where I am. ‘Are you near a quarry?’ she says. ‘Yes.’ ‘That’ll be Flixton Hill then’ she says ‘I’ll be there in 5 minutes.’
20 minutes later I am just about to ring her back to find out what the problem is when a car flashes me – it’s her. [Many cars have passed me in the past 20 minutes but none of them flashed!] ‘Hello’ she says ‘I assume you’re Robert?’ ‘Yes I am.’ Put my rucksack in the boot and get in the car. Chat a bit. Drive down the hill the 2 miles or so to Flixton, turning left on main road. Reach the house (Southfield) by a large B&B sign. Park round the back. Inside the house is a placid but not friendly dog which Mrs Wheeler puts in another room. Put my stuff in my room and take off my shoes. Have a good cup of tea and chat to Mrs Wheeler (Marjorie) for a long while about this and that. She has a son and daughter; the son went to Cambridge; they are 35/36 now; just like Keith in Fridaythorpe, they have to pay the Tourist Board to be inspected for the Wolds Way Accomodation Guide [£160 which is more than the profit they make] so they will not be in the guide next year (I think this is really stupid and I will be writing to them about it – what walkers want is cheap accommodation not clinically sanitised 5 star hotels – it makes me mad.)
After the cup of tea I decide to take a shower. Marjorie keeps me talking for a bit, but I manage to get away in the end taking a cup of tea with me! Hot shower - I have now grown a new blister on my left heel towards the outer side (thought I could feel something). My right ear [you remember this was blocked completely in bed in North Grimston, and partially thereafter] becomes unblocked in the shower (I can hear a hissing noise). The sunburn on my legs/calves is still tender but not as bad as it has been. And there is some burning on my neck and arms! I discover when I get dressed that I have mixed my clean and dirty pants together and can’t remember which is which – have to make a guess – gross! Talking about pants, I notice I have sore marks at the top of my thighs where they have been chafing – I think I felt this happening today – put on some talcum powder(no Vaseline) which I hope will do the teick.
Get dressed and back out to ‘kitchen’ [large room kitchen/diner] where Mr Wheeler (Jack – moustache, pleasant demeanour) has turned up along with Ken, a slightly overweight elderly friend. Marjorie is in the garden and returns a little later with some beans which she prepares for freezing. Jack and Ken chat (mainly Ken) and Marjorie joins in now and then. I don’t say a lot but wait for Ken who has promised to give me a lift to one of the (3) pubs in Seamer for my meal. We leave at 7:10 – Ken is carrying a book of photos which he puts in the boot (which contains a water pressure jet). We set off and join the A64 (Scarborough) for a bit but turn off to Seamer. They decided that the Mayfield was the best pub for beer and food, so Ken drops me off there. I go in, order a pint and some food, and write up the log, which is where I am now at 8:44.
It is now Monday 21 and I am sat at home, but I have decided it is high time I finished the log. What exactly were the events of 19 August 2000? Well, after finishing the log on Friday night I had a few more pints and just watched other people in the pub. A couple of girls and their macho ‘boyfriend’ commandeered the corner near the phone [I had to phone Jack to come and pick me up], which made it difficult for me to butt in and use it. Luckily, though, another girl decided to make a call before me so she got them to move. She was only on the phone a short time and then I got a go. However, as I went to pick up the phone, the pub phone rang and I discovered that it was connected to this phone! The barman told me to put the phone down. The girl had obviously asked whomsoever she phoned to ring back, so she then took the call. This took a few minutes and then I did get a proper go. Jack answered (Marjorie had given me a card with their number on it) and he said he’d be there in 5 minutes, ‘see you outside.’ I drank up, waited about 5 minutes them went outside. Jack turned up and we drove back to Flixton.
Marjorie was still up, and she commented that I was limping. I told her I had developed a new blister. She got together some plasters and stuff for me to put on it (after I’d burst it! - she gave me some hypodermics [Jack was diabetic] to stick in it). I retired to bed with the equipment. Made myself a cup of tea (which didn’t taste very nice – was it the water, the milk, or the tea?). Then tried to burst the blister with the hypos – but they were just too fine and the hole they made was too small. Tried to use them to suck out the fluid, which was partially successful – some fluid left I think (does it seep in anyway?). Marjorie said let the air get to it so I didn’t put any plasters on it as I went to bed. Slept well, though I had to get up once in the night – too much beer, or tea. I’d asked for breakfast at 9am so didn’t get up until 8:30.
It was chucking it down! I recalled that when I emerged from the pub last night the streets were wet, so it must have started then. Abluted. Dressed. Waited until 9am (put plasters on blisters). Out to kitchen o greet M&J. There is also another couple staying in the cabin (a converted summerhouse) in the garden, who join me for breakfast. (There was also a large caravan in the garden which some guests used.) The couple are from Wales (Barry) and drove up yesterday (in appalling weather apparently) to see some relatives/friends who were staying in Hunmanby [just up the road] and take them back to Barry for a few days. The relatives/friends are Brits living abroad (somewhere in Europe I think) who have been ill and wanted to see home one last time.
We all wolf down a fried breakfast (even the wife [who was on crutches] of the couple who never normally has a cooked breakfast). Chat a little [though I’m not very chatty in the morning – nor at any other time!] over a cup of tea. The couple [who did tell me their names, which I forgot instantly] depart to see their friends. Jack has left on some errand. I go and pack. Incidentally both the couple and Marjorie offered to give me a list to Filey 9in view of the weather) but I politely declined (of course – the weather is not that important – you have to keep walking, not accept rides – this applies to trips along the WW itself, not diversions off it as I have made to Flixton). I decide to wear trousers today (I have worn shorts all week) and a T-shirt. (Sue washed my clothes for the first 2 days, shorts and multicoloured shirt, which I have worn nearly every day, apart from Thursday when I wore a T-shirt.). Also don my over trousers and slightly tight cagoule.
‘You seem to have the right equipment,’ said Marjorie. I fill my water bottle, then we set off in Marjorie’s little Corsa (rucksack fills the boot) and head back up the hill to the WW. It is still raining, but not quite so hard. Do 200m of WW south on the road in the car; she drops me off where the WW leave the road to the east. Say cheerio to M and thank her for her hospitality. Set off through puddles along a fence along the top of the incipient Raven Dale. The dale deepens. Gradually descend into Camp Dale, steep at end so I detour a bit to avoid slipping on the wet grass. A short steep climb up the other side, then along the top of the dale following a fence which eventually turns south. The rain stops. Take off my cag, walk 10 yards, take off my over trousers. Hope it stays fine (sun is trying to show itself).
Soon reach another fence and have to turn right down into Camp Dale. Near the bottom of the hill is quite an elaborate show jumping circuit. The path goes through (a corner of) it and then left over a fence and through some lumpy open ground marked as The Camp on the map (it is another deserted medieval village). Now this place is where the two I met yesterday got lost [so I must be careful]. It is true there are not many signposts once over the fence, but you have to use the map to guide you through up a valley on the left (Stocking Dale). This is the last chalk dale – take a snap. It starts to rain again, so I put on my cag, but not the over trousers. The dale is wooded on one side at the bottom and on both sides further up. It rises gently but never steeply. Soon reach the top, a right turn along a farm track. It is muddy and clings to the soles of my shoes. Track swings left through Stockdale Farm. Pass a line of abandoned cars on the right that are becoming part of the hedgerow! Completely overgrown. A woman at the farm was shouting. Reach a road.
The track continues across the road; it is slightly more grassy (mud still clinging). The rain stops, I take off my cag, have a swig, take a leak. The track begins to descend the last chalk escarpment of the WW. I’m looking for a stile on the right now. I’m not sure how far I’ve come since the road, but it should be coming up soon. I note there is a power line crossing the path on the map, but not on the ground! And there is a dew pond on the map that’s not there either. But I do eventually find the stile, over, across a harvested wheat field and another stile and more steeply down hill along a hedge/fence to left and over more stiles until I reach a field full of ‘weed’ in which a tractor is going up and down on the other side (doing what?). Take a snap of the hill behind me (Muston Wold, the last Wold). Reach the main road through Muston village.
Turn right down road through village. Pass the Ship Inn (not marked on map but mentioned in the accommodation guide) and wonder if I will stop here for lunch. It is 12:15. In the end I decide to press on to Filey. Chap in his garden says ‘I thought you were lost the way you were looking at that map!’ Reach a small green, WW leaves the road on the far side of it up a ramped pavement and steps by the side of a house. Cross fields and another road (here the sound of thunder in the distance but there is no rain). Path continues along a fence to right, past a school, to reach a ‘green ginnel’ behind some houses. Turn right along ginnel – it starts to rain – put on cag – rain make a noise on the roof of a plastic greenhouse. Reach a road in the middle of a housing estate.
Turn left and head into Filey. Just houses until I reach a level crossing and nearby the station. Over crossing and into station to look at timetable [I will be taking the train back to Beverley]. There is a young lad (14?) trying to read the timetable but he can’t figure it out and asks me when the next train to Scarborough is – the time is now 12:45 - I have a look and tell him ‘quarter past six’ - ‘what?’ he says ‘Sorry. Quarter past two,’ I correct myself. I look at times to Beverley, and there are 2: one at 15:34 arrives 16:24 and one at 17:00 arrives 17:55. Either of these is possible, it just depends how long it takes me to have lunch and do the last bit of the path. I suspect I will miss the 15:34. Out of station and down main street into Filey. Pass bus station. Pass church. Turn left then right. See a pub called the Star and decide to go in for lunch. It is 1pm.
Decide to drink bitter (not shandy) so have a pint of Cameron’s and a tuna baguette followed by another pint. I decide against writing the log in here (it is a quite crowded town pub and I think I would draw attention to myself if I did anything odd, like writing a log!) I note that there is a circular walk in the book that takes you to the end of the WW. Takes 2 hours. I will do this in the opposite direction and might just make the early train –but I will have to hurry. Set off.
Left out of pub, left again then right past another pub (the Crown) to the end of the road. The sea lies before me. There are some steps here leading down to the ‘beach’ (Coble Landing) and a view of Filey Brigg and Flamborough Head. Take a couple of snaps of the ‘panorama’ and then go down the steps. I emerge at Coble Landing where I notice there really is a Lifeboat Station (but no lifeboat). Then I have to go up some more steps to the cliff top (not a dirt path as it says in the book) which takes me up behind the Lifeboat Station. According to the book (again) there should be a sign with distances on it but there is just a metal ‘tourist’ sign saying ‘Beach’ etc – I have been seeing signs like this since I left the station. I notice that my legs complain bitterly about going up the steps [perhaps I am more tired than I think], but I soon emerge at cliff top where there is a proper WW sign. Then its along the cliff and down again into a ravine (Arndale), past a sailing club, and up the other side again. My legs are shot to hell now, but I soldier on.
Say hi to a couple at the top who think I am just setting off on the Cleveland Way rather than just finishing the WW! Shamble along past a car park to Carr Naze, which is the name of the cliffs above Filey Brigg. – notice a small monument in the distance and when I reach it I find it is the meeting point of the Wolds Way and the Cleveland Way. [If I’d been thinking straight or had read the notes in the accommodation guide I would by now have realised that this was the end of the walk and that I should now retrace my steps, not go on another two miles, as directed by the book!]. The monument is a stone ‘sculpture’ carved with the names of places on both walks (e.g. Millington, Huggate, and Thixendale), WW on one side CW on the other. Take a snap of it. Only one left now, which I am saving for the ‘end’ (fool).
I decide that I will go and take a look at the Brigg. Set off behind an elderly couple along a well made path along the top of Carr Naze. A man on a bike overtakes us. Reach a sign reading ‘Please use these steps to visit Filey Brigg.’ (The old way down at the end of the point has been badly eroded.) I will not be going down (I’d only have to come back up again, ouch!) I carry on to the end of the cliff (where there is another sign saying don’t go down this way) and have a ggod view of the Brigg. It is a spit of flat rocks jutting out into the sea. It is interesting but not spectacular, but it is I decide the spiritual end of the WW (I still haven’t twigged that it is the actual end) so I take a snap of it – the last one. ‘Don’t you want me to take one of you?’ asks the woman of the elderly couple. ‘No thanks – I’ve run out of film anyway!’ I say. Set off back up the path to do the last mile and a half (or so I think) of the WW along the cliff top. I will come back across fields (just to make it interesting) as per the circular walk. But I am quite tired and not looking forward to it.
Pass the monument again. Signs everywhere saying ‘Beware Dangerous Cliffs.’ Pass people coming the other way. Path becomes a track. There is a sign with a map on it saying ‘Conservation Walks’ which indicates where the path back to Filey across the fields might be (but rather confusingly it doesn’t show the path marked in the book as a right of way.) Keep going. (Forgot to mention that I took my cag off in the pub. It is now bright and sunny!) Reach fence that might be the end but no signs for WW or CW and no stile as in book. Also I have seen no sign pointing to Filey. Decide to keep going. Reach another fence, still no WW/CW signs and no stile, but there is another ‘Conservation Walks’ sign. Keep going! National Trust sign (Newbiggin Cliff, marked on map as after the end of the WW!) And a short time later there is another NT sign. I decide there is no end and I’ve come far enough. I take a leak (hope nobody appears) and then head back looking for the turn off. I turn right by a fence (which I note from the map is at point H, the end of the WW, and is the wrong way but someone has used it before and it will lead me to the path) I follow a swathe cut through the wheat by a tractors wheel. Still following the fence I turn left and then right – I am now on the path proper which takes me past a derelict farm to the road. [Glad no one was in the farm to see me ‘tresspassing’, if indeed I was.]
I am now completely whacked and there is 1km to go back to Filey; I manage to shuffle down the road. It is 15:30 so I have missed the early train. I will go back to the pub for another pint while I’m waiting for the 17:00. Pass new houses not on map. Sign to the Catholic Church in someone’s garden. After what sems like an age, the road bends left and reaches a roundabout. Turn right then left at a mini roundabout and back to the (same) pub, The Star. Rest at last. It is 4pm.
Have another pint of Camerons – different barman – pub now crowded (it was quite sparse earlier) – kids playing pool – girl and boy, she in platform shoes, she takes forever to pot the yellow balls, then 2 girls play, the elder winning easily. I have a second pint and decide to ring Sue on the mobile. Col answers. I tell him the train arrives at 17:55, see you there. He asks what do I want to do for dinner. I suggest a curry. He syas they will discuss it. Bye. Have a 3rd pint!
I now have to work out how long it will take me to get to the station (in my present exhausted condition). On the map it is 500m or 3/8 mile. I will be shuffling along at 1.5 mph so it will take 15 minutes, I’d better allow 20. Leave the pub at 16:40. Hobble up the road back the way I originally came. Pass church. Pass bus station. Reach rail station at 16:50 – sit for a few minutes – wander up and down (restless – keen to be on my way) without my rucksack – bliss. Train arrives 5 minutes early. Get on. It sets off at 5pm.
I had completed the Wolds Way and I was on my way home!
Train goes through Hunmanby and Bempton on the way to Bridlington. Then through Nafferton, Driffield and Hutton Cranswick on the way to Beverley (didn’t stop at Arram). Arrive right on time. As I get off the train an old man (with his wife who is in a wheelchair, joined at Bridlington) says ‘You’ve caught the sun.’ I tell him I’ve just walked the Wolds Way, but now I’ve finished and I’m going home. On the platform at Beverley I am a bit confused as to which way is the way out, but actually it is staring me in the face – a footbridge. I cross over slowly, my legs are shattered, and see Col waiting on the other platform. He can’t believe how slowly I’m walking! Mum and Sue are in the car. I dump my rucksack in the boot and we head off to the Tap & Spile.
In the pub Mum decides she will have a Croft, but the girl can’t reach it and a customer has to help her (nobody drinks sherry in the Tap & Spile). I have a pint of Moorhouse’s Amber Rambler (of course). Sue has Gooseye and Col has Rooster. We sit in the ‘snug’ to the right of the entrance (the fire is not in, it is August). I pay for the drinks. Col buys the next round (Sue has Coniston Bluebird, I have Gooseye, Col has Rooster again). He gets Sue a pint by mistake – she only wanted a half – Col and I help her to drink it. We decide not to have a curry (Mum is not keen and no-one wants to drive) but to go to the Bay Horse (the pub in Cherry Burton) and have a meal. We will go home first so that I can shower and change. We do so.
Sue is impatient whilst I shower – she is famished. I have developed a new blister, a small one on the right foot (it later disappears). Sue drives us to the pub (Mum can’t manage the walk, short though it is). They now have Pedigree in the pub which is what we drink. The women order haddock and we men order beefsteak pie. It is all very nice. I think we had a second pint, and then went home. Sue & Col have some white wine, I stick to beer (canned). Mum isn’t drinking. We sit down and watch a video (The Matrix – which turns out to be very good). Then off to bed with a cup of tea. I sleep very well.
Up at 9:30 (a lie in). Everyone else is up and dressed. I have orange jice, tea and Frosties & All Bran mixed. Dress in shorts and multicoloured shirt. Mum is keen to go home asap because Sue & Col are preparing for the arrival of Col’s Mum (she is coming up from Tunbridge Wells – she has already rung and is due at 1:30). Pack up (not forgetting to leave a birthday card for Rich) and pack car, but forget my jacket (it has been hanging in the hallway all week). Cup of coffee. Set off at 11:40. Have lunch at the Highwayman near Holymoorside. Home.
Now I’m home again the WW is well and truly over. Just a few details to report. Rang Sue at 3pm, no reply. Had a long sleep (very tired) then rang again at 6:30, no reply. Went to Cross keys for dinner, back home, cup of tea, ring again, Col answers. He will send the contents of the jacket (check book etc) but will keep the jacket for me to collect on my next visit. Col’s Mum arrived okay at 1:30 and they went to Nellie’s for lunch and Valencia for dinner, which was why they were out when I rang both times. Mum rang Uncle Reg earlier and we had a chat about the walk. Went to bed early for another long well deserved sleep. Work tomorrow! Then my holiday really will be over.