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In
an area dominated by high arctic plateaux, the Cairngorms are
the very highest. The mountains in this part of Scotland are perhaps
not the most spectacular, with rounded flanks and gently undulating
summits, but the great distances and harsh climate can make them
a challenge for the mountain traveller.
Of
course harsh climate is a relative term. In one sense these mountains
are amongst the driest of all the highland areas in the UK, with
the prevailing south-westerlies dumping most of the precipitation
in the west. But when the north wind blows, it brings abundant snow
to this part of Scotland, and that snow can stick around for quite
a while.
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Cairn
Toul in the western Cairngorms
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As
these mountains were closest to home when I was a kid, I grew up
tramping their heather-clad slopes. From Mount Keen, the most easterly
of the Munros to the top of Ben Macdhui, the second highest mountain
in Scotland (and in the British Isles for that matter), in Spring,
Summer, Autumn and Winter, I got to know and love these hills.
I've
been roasted by the heat of the sun and glad of the coolness of
a snowfied, while in winter I've had my eyes freeze shut as an arctic
gale and whiteout made a trek across the summit plateau into a life
or death struggle.
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The sun
sets over Loch Morlich just below Cairngorm |
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There
are too many great memories to put down on one page, but a few stick
in my mind more than others.
Like
the winter trip where we climbed Sgairneach Mhor (one of the mountains
you see to the west as you travel up the A9 and through the Drumochter
Pass). The conditions underfoot (see right) made for slow progress
with deep snow making every step a bit of a struggle. Eventually
though, we made the summit, and of course the obvous way to get
back down was to sit on our bivvy bags and slide! It was the longest
sledge run I've ever made.
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must have been the best part of 450 metres in height and a good kilometre
long! Fantastic fun! Mind you it would have been painful if we'd hit
anything solid on the way down. |
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My
Mother (bless her) has always been concerned for my welfare on these,
to her eyes, hare-brained trips. She used to insist on making a
proper packed lunch when in truth I was happy to chomp through lots
of chocolate bars.
On
the bleak tops between Glas Maol and Cairn of Claise I searched
for a sheltered spot to gulp down some hot coffee and have something
to eat. My friend Scott and I had both been supplied with packed
lunches by Mum and we cowered behind a boulder in sub-zero temperatures
trying to open the tightly tied plastic wrap of the lunch packs
with numb fingers.
It
was when we reached the paper napkins that we both fell about laughing.
What on earth were we supposed to do with paper napkins when our
hands were so cold we had to eat our sandwiches with our mitts on?
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Shelter Stone Crag in the heart of the Cairngorms
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The
Forestry Commission Loch Morlich campsite
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One
New Year, Scott and I climbed Beinn a Ghlo in Perthshire. The snow
had fallen thick and fast on Hogmany and had stayed to see in January
with a vengeance. Once again the snow slowed us down and by the
time we made it to the top of the first of Beinn and Ghlo's three
summits it was already afternoon and whilst the views all around
were vast, a biting wind made lingering an uncomfortable pastime.
We
had donned crampons on the way up due to the icy conditions and
kept them on to make our descent. However conditions underfoot were
awkward and uncomfortable.
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So
uncomfortable was it that we eventually set off directly down the
steep windward side of the mountain where the snow had been frozen
by the wind into a crampon friendly crust.
We
made rapid progress until we reached a point where the crust began
to get very thin and friable and snow started to ball up in the
crampons. Here we decided to stop and remove the spikes and then
started off again downhill. I had not put my axe away unlike Scott
who had strapped his to his rucsac and so when I took a brief tumble
on the ice covered snow he decided on a glissade.
Big
mistake.
He
shot off with great abandon and a wild whoop but by the time he
drew level with me his descent had become somewhat rapid and his
expression changed from one of exhilaration to one of terror. He
disappeared down hill at a great rate of knots and a yell before
an enormous spume of powder snow exploded several hundred feet below
marking the point where his descent had come to a sudden halt.
I hurried
downhill to reach a pair of legs sticking out of a great drift of
snow then extricated a dazed Scott who seemed to have snow in every
possible orifice and inside his clothes to boot.
"Shit!
That was bloody scary!" he exclaimed while I lay in the snow
helpless with laughter.
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The
Northern Corries of Cairngorm
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Looking
down to the Lairig Ghru from the top of Ben Macdhui
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