| IN THE cooler weather in October
the 'cataract season' began again, and if life was lonely, the pace and
variety of work left little time for thinking about it. Exhaustion brought
sleep, and sleep strength to tackle the next day.
In the evenings I sometimes made a quick change from doctor to Inspector, and taking guide and lantern (for darkness fell quickly) went off to inspect a village night-school. These were held at night because the boys herded the buffaloes by day. Most of the teachers had only a primary education themselves. While yet some distance away, the school's vocal efforts in unison suddenly increased in volume, due to a signal given by a well-placed 'scout'; and when I squeezed past the cattle into the court-yard of a mud hut where the school was assembled, the herd-boys and a few illiterate adults rose to give me their 'Johar' welcome.
More often I made solitary jungle
escapes which, like departures of royalty or film stars, were kept a close
secret up to the moment of leaving, to prevent an invasion of my bungalow
by the blind. These breaks were islands of peace in the stormy sea of daily
existence. One relaxed and lived with nature, observing the birds, but
watchful for ants and snakes. One even managed to push aside reflection
that the penalty for weekend escape might mean a hundred and twenty blind
on Monday.
Sometimes I returned to frank horror
of a different kind.
To purge the mind of such tragedies,
I one day set off in the early morning on a six-mile tramp to explore the
surrounding country and climb a neighbouring wooded hill that looked inviting.
I stopped first at a Hindu potter's village, to watch fascinated, the apparently
effortless spin of his wheel, and the skill of the potter's slow, sure
fingers. Even the decorative border was made in the soft revolving clay
by varying the position of a finger nail. It was fun to guess at the final
shape and it seemed only a few minutes work to complete each pot or jar.
Pottery is one of the oldest of man's arts, and one felt the solemnity
of being in the presence of an hereditary craftsman.
It was leopard country, and one sometimes heard their cat-like cry at night from my bungalow, but they were never seen by day. The largest animal I came across was a lizard or Iguana about four feet long. He appeared sluggish and harmless, but his tenacious grip was the secret weapon of Mahratta warriors in the seventeenth century. They used his ancestors to scale the precipices or battlements of forts, carrying a rope with them, which themselves then climbed. I left it sunning itself, and began to make mental note of landmarks to ensure my safe return journey, boulders of unusual shape or curves in dry river beds, and marked confusing bridle-paths with arrows made from twigs. I had been climbing all the time, so it was only a short stiff climb to the summit, where I sat looking across a forest of tree-tops that stretched to the horizon on all sides. Native huts, built of baked mud and straw, so blended with the landscape that they were invisible, and I could have been the only man alive. Somewhere far beyond that horizon lay the mighty heart of cities and the friendliness of home, which the passage of time had dimmed in my mind, making them lack reality. In a solitude and silence that it first seemed complete, I presently began to hear a whole host of country sounds reminding me of Natural History programmes on the BBC - the dull thud of a woodcutter's axe, the musical tinkle of cow-bells, the warbling note of a shepherd boy's bamboo lute , the bulbul's song, and the intermittent metallic cymbal of the copper-smith bird, the hum of wild bees and the chirp of invisible crickets. The distant cry of a child borne on the wind, the cooing of doves, a woodpecker chiseling his nest in a tree, a herd-boy's shout of command as he marshaled his herd from a mound like a general manoeuvering troops, the raucous grunt of buffaloes wallowing neck-deep in muddy pools. The creak of the wooden shaft of a well being worked by bullocks, the rumble of far-off thunder and a sudden puff of wind that stirred the tree-tops making a sound like wavelets breaking on a distant shore, a cock crowing. The strains of a plaintive song sung by an unknown traveler on a hidden path, haunting like that of Wordsworth's 'Solitary Reaper'. On my return journey I came on the
Santal wood-cutter I had heard, dark, sinewy, hacking down young jungle
trees to his heart's content. I asked him a few questions, to which he
gave the usual exasperating Santal reply to any question (even if he knew
the answer) - 'Okobadai?' 'Who knows?'
Farther on I overtook some Santal
women gathering faggots who give me an ingenuous, merry 'Johar' and was
soon attracted to a Santal village by a beating of tom-toms. A Santal 'war-dance'
was in progress, with an all-male cast. But alas for the encroachment of
civilisation, one of the dancers waved a closed umbrella instead of a spear.
The Santal village differed markedly from the Hindu potter's one I had visited earlier, in which the dwellings were huddled together. In this, two rows of separate huts, each with a little fenced garden, flanked a single village street. Halfway down the street was the 'smithy' where village cronies gathered to chat, and at its end a bandstand like erection made of six bamboo poles and a grass roof. This was the Manjhi Than, where ancestor worship took place and the council of village elders conferred. This consisted of headman, adviser, two priests, a custodian of public morals, and a messenger. But the sun was sinking low in the
sky, and it was time to return from my jungle escape. There is no twilight
in the East, so I hurried on across the narrow bunds between the rice fields,
as a trio of foxes sped to their covert, and I to my white bungalow among
the trees, and tomorrow's blind.
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