The good news is that it's fairly easy. A pair of Barn Owls, kept in decent conditions will
almost certainly mate and you could find yourself stuck with an extra ten birds each year. The bad news is that it isn't a good idea! If you do it because you want to make money, you won't. There are so many available that it's a buyer's market. They won't even pay for their own board and lodging.
If you want to breed them for release, forget it. It's now illegal to release captive-bred Barn Owls without a licence. In the past too many people, with the best of motives, have released birds in entirely the wrong places and in the wrong way. The result has been the deaths of hundreds of Owls, not only of those released but also the resident birds that have suddenly been faced with introduced competition.
If you really want to help Barn Owls, join the Raptor Trust or a similar organisation in your own area. Charities such as theirs can do more for the long-term survival of these birds than any individual, no matter how well intentioned.

Well, if you're just looking at the cost of the bird, yes they are. You can buy one for less than the price of a decent pair of shoes! The trouble is that the cost of the bird is only a tiny
fraction of the total that you'll have to spend if you're going to do it properly. Let's look at the true costs.
(NB. The figures quoted here are intended as a realistic approximation only.)
The first step, before you even start looking for your bird, is to
FIND OUT WHAT'S INVOLVED
The only sensible way of doing this is to go on a course. We've heard of people trying to teach themselves from a book. Yes, books are a useful reference source but they're no
substitute for hands-on experience and the opportunity to discuss the ins and outs with a skilled falconer. You'll also find that the contacts that you make on the course will be
invaluable when the inevitable problems crop up.

Look on the bright side. You may find out that you just aren't cut out for it (let's face it,
gutting and de-yolking day-old chicks isn't everyone's cup of tea) and, whilst you'll end up paying for the experience of a lifetime, at least you'll be able to cut your losses before the serious spending begins!
BASIC EQUIPMENT
The amount of gear that you'll need just to get started is quite frightening. Some of it is fairly obvious - if you've ever watched a Bird of Prey demonstration, you can't have missed seeing much of it. However, the glove, leash, jesses, creance and swivel are only the
beginning and you'll be amazed by the amount of extra equipment that will suddenly
become vital just when you thought you'd got everything.
It is vital that you buy and use a good telemetry (radio tracking) system. Remember, your bird will be captive bred and won't have any idea how to survive in the wild. If you lose it you will certainly be sentencing it to a slow death by starvation if you fail to find it in time.
You'll also need a bath, a good set of special scales & weights, a freezer (unless you want to keep a supply of day-old cockerel chicks, mice and rats in with the beefburgers and frozen peas) not forgetting to lay on a supply of food before you get your bird.

ACCOMMODATION
The Raptor Trust recommends a minimum aviary size of 12' x 8' fitted out with perches and a nest box. The walls, mesh and flooring should be made of the appropriate materials. One absolute requirement is that no chicken wire or any other bare metal mesh must be used. Birds can suffer severe injuries by flying into such materials.
(Details can be found in The Trust's Best Practice Guide - cost £5).
The aviary itself must be situated well away from any rotting vegetation such as a compost heap (this includes anything your neighbour may have just over the fence). Again, this must be built and fully fitted out before you get your bird.

One further point to bear in mind is that the aviary, no matter how well maintained will probably have to be replaced at some point during your bird's life so you are probably going to have to allow about £100 a year extra!