STONEHOUSE TO CREMYLL AND COASTAL WALK TO CAWSAND
9th MAY 99

This is a walk beloved by Plymothians, since only a short ferry trip from Stonehouse to Cremyll in Cornwall transports us from the streets of Plymouth to a beautiful and unspoilt country park in Cornwall and the panorama of the coastal walk to Kingsand/Cawsand.

We decided to go for a short 5 to 6 mile walk on this Sunday 9th May rather than the longer one offered by the Ramblers. It was our first walk of any distance since early March, Florida and other events having diverted our attention from walking. The weather forecast was high wind and rain sweeping through after lunch, another reason for a shorter local walk.

We drove the 3 miles to the Ferry at Stonehouse to catch the 100 year old ferry across to Cremyll. We caught the first ferry which departed Admirals Hard at 9.15AM. Incidentally during the summer if then runs every half hour throughout the day. The weather forecast was not really borne out by the reality of a fresh SE breeze and some sun. The 5 min crossing always offers excellent views of the marina on the starboard side and the old Royal Naval victualling yard the Royal William Yard to port.

Across the mouth of the Tamar and we are at Cremyll in Cornwall and the entrance to Mount Edgecumbe Park.

It is a quite magnificent park with splendid walks and views. On a warm Summer Sunday it would not be unusual for the little ferry to carry up to a 1000 Plymothians and visitors during the day across to sample the delights of this park. Many do not venture more than a half a mile from the ferry and somewhat no more than to the local pub which is just across the road from the ferry.

The Cornish section of the South West Coastal Path starts here and the first 3 miles around to Cawsand was our modest goal for the day. A walk of 5 to 6 miles would be enough for me after my walking lay off!!

We walked though the Orangery and the formal gardens behind it. People spend hours just in this area as there are a variety of hidden gardens waiting to surprise the visitor in this area. The orangery itself is now a restaurant serving hot meals and refreshments thoughout the day. The height of the building gives some clue as to the range of large orange trees and other exotic fruit which the greenhouse must have held a hundred years ago

We didn't stop to investigate the delights today but continued along the waterside up over a small hill and down the other side until Barn Pool came into view.

Behind Barn Pool there is a lovely little lake nestling at the base of a natural amphitheatre of trees and flowering shrubs. With the boats mooring in the sheltered anchorage and the splendid panorama just behind, it is another spot very popular with visitors.

Apparently the beach shelves very steeply and a few yards into the anchorage there is getting on for 50 feet depth of water. Visiting yachtsmen like it since it is one of the few sheltered anchorages in the area which is free!! In most wind directions it is also relatively calm. Today though was a south Easterly and the anchorage was less than smooth.

Leaving Barn Pool there is a climb up to the Park itself where spectacular musical and other events are staged during the Summer months.

There are some good views to be had here of Plymouth Sound and Drakes Island as well as views of Plymouth itself.

There is always something to catch the eye from this vantage spot with the dockyard and naval boats bustling to and fro. At times the Sound is a mass of yachts and the Princess Yachts are always passing by to go out to the Sound for their engine tests. At over a million pounds for the most expensive they certainly are impressive craft.

Dropping down to sea level again there in the middle of a wood sits an old house. This house has an interesting history since it was used as a retreat for Lord Nelson where his mistress Emma Hamilton was reputed to have stayed when Nelson was in port. Again there are good views of the Sound from this secluded house. It is still inhabited and although it could benefit from a lick of paint it seems to have stood the centuries very well. Rumour has it that it is now inhabited by an animal and bird loving eccentric who has foxes and deer visiting at night and birds nesting in the rooms in the house. As you can see, the rhododendroms were in full bloom when we visited and provided a very colourful setting for the house.

Leaving Emma Hamilton Cottage, the coastal path then risely steeply up through a heavily wooded area which is full of rhododendroms which produce a mass of colour in the early summer.

A steepish climb up brings us to a level path which sweeps around the estate and must have been a coach path in its heyday. As we walked we found some strange and surprising sights, arches, watering holes and gazebos.

The coastal path swung around the headland and Fort Picklecombe lay below us, the gazebo would have had direct views of this Palmerston Fort before the rampant rhododendrom blocked the view. Continuing along this level path through the wood we suddenly emerged into fields and could see Kingsand and Cawsand about a mile West and the Breakwater out in the Sound looked surprisingly close from our vantage point.

The path then gradually dropped down and we passed the road to Fort Picklecumbe and a well kept house just behind a scouts camp site.

There were lots of memorial seats along the placed by people whose relatives had also loved the area. There are plenty of seats in the area for walkers to rest and admire the view. We continued apace howev. We dropped down from the main coastal path down to a beach, to walk along the rocks just above sea level.

We passed some prefabricated beach huts with canvas roofs. These constructions are removed every winter. These small chalets have been located at this point as long as I can remember, at least 50 years.

They must be very exposed to strong South Easterlies as they are literally only 5 feet above high water level and very close indeed to the sea.

Five minutes further walking and we were in Kingsand/ Cawsand. There are inhabitants who live here throughout the year but a large number of properties in the village are holiday owned properties. Once again, when the wind is kind and in the right direction this area proves very popular with yachties who moor up in large numbers at weekends, being so close to the many marinas of nearby Plymouth. It had taken us about one and a half hours to walk around the coast path from Cremyll.

We sat on the seats overlooking the beach just outside the Devonport Inn and decided to return 'over the top' back to the Ferry. It was 11AM and we wanted to make the midday ferry back to Plymouth from Cremyll. We walked up through the narrow streets of Kingsand passed the Rising Sun Pub and up a very steep hill. Ignoring the signposted turn to the coast path, we continued up Devonport Hill and soon came upon a narrow footpath, quite different to the wide level paths through the main estate. This was an exceedingly steep footpath rising up to a old, long disused, gun battery at the top of the hill. The steep uphill section most certainly tested our lung capacity and we were soon panting away as we walked quickly up this very steep path. However, a bonus of height is an improved view of the coastline itself and the views of the coast in either direction at the top were quite spectacular

As we passed the battery, we could see Maker Church in the distance which was to be our next goal. At this point we left the footpath and we continued walking along a metalled roads, less than ideal for my knees but if we were to make the midday ferry we couldn't look for easier, if longer, routes. We were relatively quickly at Maker Church and walked through a car park into Mount Edgecumbe estate once again.

We continued along the broad swathe of maker heights where sheep grazed and deer can sometimes be seen. From here, there are excellent views up the river Tamar, the dockyard, ferries and the bridges in the distance. Stopping briefly to admire the scene, we then began our descent. We had had an arduous climb up to the heights, we now had a longer if not so steep descent through the Mt Edgecumbe estate.

After a relatively short distance through the estate, we passed by the beautiful old house which once housed the Edgecumbe family and supported a large complement of workers to manage this very large estate. Even now it is still occupied by descendents of the original family and is open to the public at most times during the summer months.

We continued down over the hill and soon we were once again at Cremyll. We had made it with 10 minutes to spare. It had taken us 90 minutes around using the coastal path then only 50 minutes on the return journey over the top. We celebrated whilst waiting for the ferry with a Cornish ice-cream capped with proper cream and a chocolate flake.

Looking across the river Tamar we could see Mount Wise and the millennium erection, and I use the term advisedly, which Plymouth City Council have put up to celebrate the the new century. It has been described as many things, most of them uncomplementary. We must visit this edifice soon to see what it really represents. By 10 past 12 we were again in Stonehouse and into our car for the short hop back home. The rain had held off, the sun had come out and once again the weather forecast was far from accurate. We can recommend this walk to anyone who has the pleasure of visiting Plymouth, it always has been one of our more popular walks and one that can be done in three hours without too much difficulty.