PERRANPORTH TO NEWQUAY, A 12 MILE SANDY EXPERIENCE
MONDAY 28TH OCTOBER 2000

After a few beers on Sunday afternoon and evening I wondered how I'd feel for walking on the Monday. I'm pleased to say, absolutely fine.

We thanked Terry and Al for their hospitality over the weekend and set off Perranporth, some 15 miles away from Falmouth on the north coast for our final leg of the planned Hayle to Newquay walk.

As we drove towards Redruth, rain, surely not rain on the last walk, we had done so well on the previous three legs.

Luckily the shower passed over and upon our arrival at Perranporth the weather seemed similar to the previous days, or so we hoped.

On this occasion we established that there was a bus back from Newquay and that because it was a bank holiday, a Sunday service would apply with buses back from Newquay at 25 minutes past the hour.

Could we get to our destination by 2.25 PM or would we be catching the 3.25 PM or even later.

Never one to refuse a challenge, even a self imposed one, at 10.40 AM we set off across the magnificent Perran Sands from Perranporth at a cracking pace for the first 2.5 mile flat sandy experience.

Yes the coastal path was actually shown on the 1:25000 map as going across the mean hide water mark along Perran Bay.

The sands were wonderful for walking, good firm and very flat. We made good progress and were climbing the sand dunes at the end of the sandy section about 40 minutes later.

The dunes behind the beach extended up to 1 mile inland and there is some mystery surrounding a village which got swallowed up in the dunes and of the St Piran's church of many centuries ago.

The church is marked on the map in the dunes but the 'lost' village most certainly is not.

The climb up to the coastal path of the cliff path leading out to Ligger Point is initially difficult up steep dunes but soon levels out as the narrow path skirts around a military range with lots of keep out signs.

There are magnificent views, particularly at low tide, looking back from the cliff path leading out to Ligger Point towards Perranporth, a wide and long expanse of sand with very few people on it.

The narrow coastal path led us out towards Ligger Point, passing two buildings on the ridge above, I took it that these building were part of the military camp.

As we made our way around the point we noticed a rather large ominous black cloud moving towards us.

Shortly afterwards it was raining hard, the first rain we had been caught in since we started walking on the Friday PM.

Wet weather gear on and we were heading back on the other side of the point now heading towards the military camp, much bigger that I had imagined it to be.

The path leading us around the seaward side of the camp was certainly designed to corral the walkers. As can be seen it consisted of two stout fences constraining the path, at least we couldn't easily stray from the path at this point.

The fences continued until we turned again away from the camp buildings and headed for the next headland, that of Penhale Point with the relatively large Gull Rocks just beyond it.

From the photograph it looks like one rather large rock, as an OS map of the area reveals, it is in fact two large rocks, one just behind the other. It is also called Carter's Rocks and it looks like an excellent seabird sanctuary with close views of it from Penhale camp.

 

Near the end of Penhale Point there are some strange looking metal fixtures, they are obviously some form of directional aerials, but I've never seen any looking quite like these.

They are a complete circle of spikes of vertical concentric rings, with its proximity to the nearby Penhale Military Training camp I'd guess there is a military link to the aerial farm on the Point.

Leaving the point we followed the coastal path as it headed east and before long we could see another magnificent beach ahead of us, Holywell Beach.

The beach has about a half a mile frontage at low tide and sits between Penhale Point and Kelsey Head. Behind it along most of the beach sits large sand dunes through which the coast path wanders.

Holywell got its name, as legend has it since near the beach there is a Holy well which pilgrims used to visit to drink from this well with it's healing powers.

It appears to be completely unspoilt and the map reveals it is a national trust owned area and hence the absence of cafes and the like.

In order to get onto the beach we had to follow the coast path inland for two hundred yards or more and then cross over a bridge over a small brook and then onto the back of the beach.

Although the sand dunes were not as extensive as some we had seen over the past few days they certainly were high enough.

We followed the waymarked path through the dunes, emerging onto the beach about half way along. A few yards after that the path ascended steeply up one of the high dunes to the top. Luckily the National Trust ( I imagine) have set up sand proof steps up towards the high point of the dune and after the little climb we were able to walk along and onto the firmer coast path again above the cliffs.

The coastal path continued across a broad grassy area with easy walking out towards the headland close to the 100 ft high cliffs.

As we approached the next headland Kelsey Head with its rocky outcrop called The Chick, out to sea a little, part of the cliff was crumbling and there was a wire fence a few feet in keeping people away, with a notice indicating the cliffs cliffs were dangerous here and to keep out.

The photograph catches the sheep in action and also shows the rocky outcrop beyond the headland.

Sheep had found a way in through the wire fence and one appeared to be reading the notice, obviously ignoring it's recommendations.

We left the headland and followed the coastal path as it led to yet another lovely beach, this particular one called Porth Joke.

Further along the coast between Portreath and Godrevy Point there were no really accessible beaches, in this area around virtually every headland there is a lovely beach with easy access, no wonder this is the most popular holiday area in the whole of Cornwall.

The cliffs are low, and at low tide the sandy beaches are superb, even at high tide there is still plenty of sand.

We made our way onto the beach at the first path leading down to it and walked along the beach to the back and then made our way up to the coastal path again for the next coast path walk of about a half a mile up and out to Pentire Point West.

Once again as we rounded the headland and followed the path back again yet another large sandy beach appeared before us. called Crantock Beach. It was near low tide and the beach frontage between Pentire Point West and East was getting on for a half mile across and seemed to extend inland for a considerable distance.

The map shows that the beach and inlet is the estuary of The Gannel, a river and that the sand continues up the estuary for about 2 miles. We once again came down to the beach at the earliest opportunity and walked along the right hand side for about a mile.

As we made our way along the sands way up the beach there were lots of people enjoying the sunshine on the beach and even if we had not seen the houses of Newquay to our left on the headland, we would have guessed we must have been near a large population centre. Approaching a mile up the beach from the low water point we saw a bridge over The Gannel. This is usable only a few hours either side of low water. There is a passenger ferry to carry the holiday makers to the beach when the bridge is submerged at 70p per crossing.

We crossed over the bridge and made our way up the steep zig zag path up to the road and the hustle and bustle even at the edge Western edge of Newquay.

Even really not that high the path up from the bridge was surprisingly steep.

We headed out to the Warren, a grassy area leading to Pentire Point East and by the car park we turned right and headed across for our first real views of the holiday town of Newquay.

It was 2 PM when we arrived at this point at the bus back to Perranporth left Newquay at 2.25 PM, would we make it?

We had a great view of Fistral Beach, the best known surfing beach in the UK, where many international surfing competitions are held.

Immediately behind the beach is a golf course and behind that the busy town of Newquay, in the holiday season anyway.

The coast road linking the warren towards Fistral Beach is blocked to traffic and therefore we were able to walk along with no bother from traffic.

As we approached the western edge of this excellent beach we could see just how full it really was, after all it was a lovely warm sunny day and a bank holiday Monday so it wasn't surprising that it was so full.

We hurried along the coast path running behind the back of the beach and just over half way along the beach we took the public right of way that led up from the beach right across the golf course for 300 metres.

Walking very quickly we climbed over the stile and entered the town itself. We asked where the buses started and were told on the other side of the town right through the centre.

We made our way at very good speed, heading east down into the main part of the town , pedestrian precincts and roads were all full of holiday makers, strolling around whilst we charged through the middle of them.

Eventually we saw 4 buses, this was the bus terminus and it was now 2.25 PM. Luckily our bus hadn't set off and we had made the 2.25 PM bus, 12 miles walking from Perranporth in 3hrs 45 mins elapsed time, not bad going. Take off a half hour for breaks and 3hr 15 mins for the 12 miles showed we maintained a good speed throughout.

After paying our £2.10p single fare we slumped, tired, sweaty but very pleased to have made the bus for the 40 min trip through the traffic of Newquay and the busy coastal route back to Perranporth and our car in the main car park there.

Our aim on the Friday afternoon at the start of the bank holiday weekend was to walk the section from Hayle to Newquay, of the order of 40 miles walking.

Success, we did complete the section in three and a half days walking with only one shower. For those wishing to try the route it is worth noting that taxis were the order of the day in the Portreath area but for Porthtowan, Perranporth and Newquay the bus links are very reasonable and quite frequent.